We walk and enjoy the scenery but the temperature is dropping. We walked to ease the tension in our legs from the hike find gelatto and shop along the village to the train station back to the ostello.
The weather was beginning to turn dark and cloud the sky. Our train takes us back to genoa where we run into a deli to grab some bread and meat for an easy cheap dinner at the hostel. The girl there speaks only a little english but she also loves us since we are from california. She loves california men and loves americans. We talk fast and are funny. We tell her we love the men in italy and she says the following" oh the italian men they are just ok- here in genoa the men are kind of like the gay you know all pretty and fancy- they like their clothes. I like the albanians!! You want a good man try albanian!! I have! Much better than the italian men here. But..... In the south ....then italian!!" Well I guess that's one way to put it. So there we have it. Albanians in the north, italians in the south! italians and gay men like nice clothes as do I. I also have liked many of the italians we have meet along the way. I don't know if I have ever meet an albanian though. If they wore lables that state their place of birth I suppose I could confirm this with more athourity.
The rain was pouring and people were coming into the shop. We said good byes and grab our things and ran to the bus stop. Our bus came fast and we made it just in time to get off at our bus change stop for the rain to begin to pour. We stood under a covered ledge with the cover being minimal. Ok I guess cover is overstating- I should say the extended lip of the 3 story building we were hugging to stay dry provided the only bus stop shelter. Our bus did not come for about 30 minutes. By this point we were wet exhausted cold and desperate for a shower and bed. We dripped all over the bus and fled once we arrived at our stop.
Inside it was loud and noisy but warm. we arrived in our room to discover we had a new roomate. Another student traveling from paris and taking some day trips while she had the time. We chatted only briefly then not long after we're asleep before we knew it. The rain thundered through the night and created quite a light show.
I woke up at 5 as usual. So easy to be a morning person here I just don't know if its because I go to sleep by 11 but it is nice to wake up with the sun.
We pack again since we will have to eat and then hop the bus to make The first train out to get the lake como by afternoon. At breakfast I sit and eat while jess checks her email. On the hostel computer. Wifi here in italy is hit and miss.
I sit with my hard roll and butter and less than stellar machine made cappucino alone. as often happens in the hoistels people join you at your table. This time it was a cute italian who asked if he could join me. Sure! He appologized for his bad english and I for my no italiano but we muddled through. He was about 33 and studying in france but was roaming italy while his visa gets worked out. We taked jobs and life and where he traveled. Jess came and joined in and told me we must hurry to be ready for the bus. The italian tild me he's just trying to find his destiny. In italian its destino.
Ok I know but shannon can hit me over the head for my next faux pas....this is what I have grieved over for the last 2 days-- Why oh why did I not get his name or email. I regret not thinking about it so beat me up all you want. I know this was an error. But he could have also asked me for mine. I There was some kind of connection between us for sure. Jess glanced at her watch and said we had to run. We grabbed our bags and a quick goodbye as we ran for the bus. He shouted something in spanish I did not understand. I shouted ciao! And we were out the door. On the bus jess said she realised he shouted I lo ve you to me in spanish as we left.......
Oh my gosh have I just left my soul mate who already loves me in genoa??? Someone stop the bus!!!!
He loves me??? What??? Why oh why did I not remember to ask his email!!! Ooooooo regret was sweeping over me! Has zprincess lost a prince? Never again!! Sigh I rode the bus and train to como in silence. I was so stupid to forget to ask. - can only live with the thought that should we be destin to meet again than it will happen. I've email the hostel to ask their assistance in identifying him but there has been no reply. so use alll your powers of the secret to help me on this one!!! Will I find him again?? Who knows or was that just a perfect brief encounter where my charms (insert laughter here).... Where my charms win over one soul! Maybe my skills are just improving. Maybe the real soul mate is just around the bend.
Sigh. Hopefully como will hold new adventures and maybe george clooney is in town. That would make me smile.
Our train arrives in varenna a village along como.
Side note- from now on the use of the word village makes me think of my lost italian prince but more on that next entry-
The guide says varenna is the diamond of lake como Its here people flock to in the summer for vacay. We get off the train and head down the hill to the first easy to find hotel on our trip. This was the only stop which would be a real hotel not a hostal and we were looking forward to it.
Maybe our hopes for a nice hotel were too high. Hotel barretta (like the gun) is a meager establishment run by a grandma much like doris roberts from everybody love raymond. She hustled us up the stairs to pick between 2 rooms. One with a toilet and balcony and one with a toilet and shower--- we chose thew shower for 10 dollars more.. The balcony though cheaper was not if much use in the rain.
We dump our things in our noveau 70s style cramped room, at least the ceilings here are taller than I am.. We grab our coats and head out to explore. Once again the siesta time thwarts our shopping and dining plans. We find a place after a brisk 2 hr walk and sit for a bit. The food is good and we enjoy the cold water front view. As a new crowd comes in we are back on our way to the hotel. We get to the room and go over the things to see the next day and spend some hours watching italian tv.
Italian MTV to be exact. They have a mix of old and new and a mix of foreign and american. Oh and horribke shows like nexts have corrupted italy as well. We decide to grab some dinner after tv overload. After so much time without tv its a nice confort to have it back even if I can only understand small sections of it.
Its freezing cold outside and raining so our evening options are limited. As dinner rols around, we decided to stick to the hotel bar-restaurant. Italian grandma a la doris roberts seats us and asks would we like pizza or spagetti? We say a menu. Menus in hand jess orders pasta with peppers and sausage, I order the insalata the only thing listed on the menu containing veggies. OK proclaims italian grandma. About 10 minutes later jess gets a plate of spagetti noodles and I get a dish of shredded cabbage and lettuice. Nothing else on it. As I look up to say something, italian grandma nods to her daughter, the chef and says something. Curtly the daughter says oh you want tomatoes and tuna on it? Like regular? Uuummm Yes! I did not order it plain and that does not look like pasta with peppers. The feeling we get is; what italian grandma wants you to eat and what ever she has made for dinner that night is what yur eating. We eat and pay and head out for a hopefull gelatto to make it better. Sadly the gelatto shops are all closed. We head back to the hotel and hole up in our room and eat the digestivo cookies for dessert.
More tv, millionaire in italian is hard, and a shower and we sleep til dawn. After the less than stellar dinner we decide 6 euroe for breakfast with italian grandma is too much and grab our things and head to the ferry to belliagio cross the lake- also known as the pearl of lake como.
We get there by 9 and the town is just waking up. We find an open cafe and sit for coffee.. As the shops begin to open jess finds a pastery place and samples a croissant. She has decided this will be a carb tour of italy with all the pasta, gelatto bread and pasteries she's consumed along the way. I say its good we hike to exhaustion every chance we get so things will even out.
We walk the whole town and shop shop shop. Its the first place I felt I had time to look around. No 480 euro jacket or boots here but, fun things to look at. Following our guide book to a local deli we are advised they will make a sandwich and you can picnic in the park...and that's just what we do. The sandwich is wonderful and I even found a bagged salad to go with mine. I had to eat it with my fingers but it was a salad and I was desperate. The food we've eaten like this has all been so good maybe packing a lunch during the week will be a good thing. Be ready girls!! Sack lunch time is just a few days away!!!
So we eat and shop and jess has a second gelatto of the day. We are enjoying como and have exhausted our shopping options and decide to go back to varenna. There's a castle we can hike to and that sounds like a good way to spend the afternoon. We drop our non esentials at the hotel and look for the unmarked path to the castle high above. Its a steep hike on rock and pebble steps almost 1 1/2 miles upwards.
Ok here we go again on a "nice stroll" that becomes a grueling sweat fest!
I'll start the next blog with my new found castle......... Maybe i'll check if its for sale!! I could be neighbors with george clooney!!
Ciao!!
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Monday, April 21, 2008
A train to genova
Well we got up this morning to pack up, eat our breakfast of roll jam and coffee and hit the road again. Oh a day on the train. This day is a train trip with lots of time in tunnels, we are to the point of being weary travelers and our compartment mates are a busy business man and detached teen. Not much for conversation I suppose. And so we sit and nap and have our tickets checked and nap until stop number 1 in pisa. Yes leaning tower and all.
Off we hop to check our bags and take a quick peek at the tower famous for leaning despite being surrounded by what is called the field of miracles and a huge doumo and lots of vendors selling their wares on the edge. We opt for saving as many euros as possible this day and walk to the tower instead of bus. Its nly about 2 miles to the site and we set out. After passing many delicious shops selling sandwiches and sweet treats we cross the bridge and know we are getting closer. There's a buzz in this part of town. A tourist buzz. It happens upon you almost by surprize as you navigate the surrounding shops and almost like cresting over a mountain hill - it appears- the thing we have sought. Surrounded by hundreds of tourists we see in front of us the doumo/church and to our right....there is the tower and it really is leaning. A lot. I sat and took it all in while jess went to explore and take pictures.
Now came the point in which I became an unofficial pisa photog! It started with one young couple asking if I would mind taking their picture together. Immediatly after another man asked me to oblige...and another....and another....and about 8 more. I was happy to help and the people were very nice about it. One english man even said "you seem to be the expert today would you mind??" Of course not and so I shot his pic as well. There was a brief lull and jessica was making her way back to me and then another request. Finally I took one last shot for a man who really had specifics on his picture. In turn I asked him to take mine and retire as unofficial photog of pisa for the day!
The tower itself is not as impressive compared to other marble covered buildings in europe. Its all about the leaning and sinking. After touring the coloseum and vatican all covered religious building the size of pisa is much smaller. Its use of colored "recycled" marble is what's beautiful. The green marble in the sun is stunning. Again reminding my self that the marble on this structure ways so much huge iron clamps are required to keep it attached to the facade its no wonder because of the sheer weight os each of these buildings that more have not sunk. The lean of the building is incredible. From far away its clearly leaning but when you see the base upclose that's when you can comprhend the real impact of the soft earth below giving way. They only allow 25 people up in the tower at a time and for a limited time. At 6 euros we decided it was not something toi accomplish this trip. Next time maybe. We have secured the return by throwing the coins in the fountian at treve so we are good!!!!
Time to walk around the vendors and the field of miracles before hopping back on the train to genoa.
Side not- have I already said I have a hard time remembering its genoa not genovia from princess diaries?? Oh well I am after all a self crowned princess all I need is a castle and my prince. On with the search. We finish at pisa and head back to the train station. While going through the main square we are stopped by a young man who asks us in english - please sign to help keep people off drugs? Again jessica wonders how he knew we spoke english......... They are looking for donations to continue funding their stay drug free program. The young man collecting signatures told us his story of being addicted to cocane and booze and has been clean 2 years. We congrats him on that and he asks us where we are from CA we say and get again as we often do "ohhhh I love california!! Are you famous??? The second time I've gotten this one from now on maybe is should just say yes I am. I'm the princess and deputy mayor of disney studios in burbank! Is that fame enough?? With hand shakes and a small donation of the coins in our pockets we say goodbye.
Again I think the joyed response we get regarding california is due to most people knowing where that part is located. If I said boise I don't know if the love would be as profuse!
On to the train and to genoa. We were ready to rest for our fun hike through the vineyards of cinque terra was tomorrow. On we traveled until genoa. We hop off the train and head to get bus tickets. Now....... Where is our bus stop. We search the station and finally find the right # stop. We get on and realise..... Wrong direction. This has happened to us almost every time we get to a new location. One wrong bus then a stop a walk back and start all over again. So we walk back to the station in the rain since waiting in the uncovered stop for the next bus sounded even less fun.
Back at the station we ask again and a nice driver points us to a remote spot near a shop with signs hidden by trees. This is our stop.. Packs secured we make our way across busy traffic to the bus. We hop on and all is good but the bus at rush hour is crowded. Jessica has already had one moment of being sandwiched in the doors as they attempt ti close she did not want another. Breath in and scooch forward is our method to fitting body and backpack into the train. We get to the right transfer spot, hop off and wait in the rain for our second bus that is close behind thankfully. Hop on and hope we don't miss the right stop for the hostel.
With the aid of a woman- italian- who pulled our sleeves and said hostelo?? Yes we nodded! Here she pointed and we all got off we followed here to our latest ymca style home for 2days and checked in.
This one like the others is clean and sparce. The bed....... Wow was it a bit wobbly though. If you breathed worng it swayed!! It is just a etal bunk so you can only do so much. We spent the night resting and enjoying the piece. We had dinner comprised of an apple and jerky and water with a power bar and our favorite new cookies- granolcerra digestivos!! Full of fiber and gusto!! What is gusto?? I don't know but we needed something to tide us til morning.
Sleep and showers in the am. We were dressed for our st through the vineyards and ready to burn calories and reward ourselves with a nice luch after. This hike through the vineyards is 10 miles long, which we knew. But this was a hard core hike. If you were to clasify it that way they do rapids this would be a level 3 intermediate hike no doubt!! We are in good shape and we up for it be even we had points we just had to pause and look ahead at when we would reach the next town and water!!
The hike is broken up like this. 2-3 miles between each town. You hike the trails established during the war when they needd to get supplies back and forth. There are more steep steps than I can count. You can start in the northern most town or southern which is what we did. The souther strarts out with the bridge via del'amore. A long winding path over the ocean rocks all covered in graffiti. This is where lovers once ran off from their towns to meet and that's how it got its name. At one point a tradition of placing a little padlock on the fence on the bridge signified two loves that will be locked together forever. Now couple add locks here to show their love. Its a sweet sentiment and makes me wish for a time when I will walk there with someone and lock our love together. Of course not knowing how sweaty and worn out I would be at the end..... On we hiked invigorated by the crashing waves below and the fresh air and no rain!! Had the rain kept pouring like it had the day before this would not have been possible. On we marched. It was a medium level hike at this point and we were making good time and getting a great workout as well until we were trapped behind a group of german tourists. Now jess has begun calling me nascar because I walk so fast. I'm trying to slow the pace but it's hard. So if I hear hey nascar behind me I know its time to slow.
But back to the germans. Our travel guide wqrned us we will pass many german tour groups with walking sticks. Death spike is more like it. We came to a group oif 30+ germans all armed with their metal spike tipped walking sticks. They jam those things so deep into the ground with each step I was worried if I passed them and they did not pay attention that jess or I could lose a toe!!!! I'm werious here. I worry about bringing ny knitting needles made of plastic and bamboo on a flight for fear they may think they are weapons and here this senior group is so well armed on the trail with sausages and spikes at least I know if we,re attacked I can shout "my great great great grandparents on my grandmothers side were german please protect us!!!" So we weaved forward only when the spiked filled obsticle course would allow. They were moving at a good pace for seniors-active seniors infact- but for nascar this is ssslllooowwwwww.finally we came to a conjested slow as a picture nook came upon us. We were muddles in the middle with the mass until the best part. when one of the leaders looked at us shouted something in german and like the sea they parted to let us through with smiles and spike safely held to their sided. For the rest of the hike it was our goal to remain ahead of the germans. when we slowed I reminded jess the germans were coming the germans were coming and we would pick up the pace again!
Onto the 2 town which was a bit steep and a little muddy but still a good hike.
It was not til we wound around the first 2/3 of the 2 leg to the 3rd town that we saw the staiirs. Not just a flight but about 30 steep flights up the side of the hill. Did I mention they were steep? We started out strong and forced ourselves to finish to the top. About 1/3 of the way up sweat was covering every inch of our bodies. It was not raining but my clothes were stuck to my back! No wonder the travel guide said going north to south would be easier. This would have been downhill stairs then.
When we reach the top we have also reached town #3 and a sign proclaiming we have successfully climbed the 382 steps to reach the villlage!! Yes 382 and that does not include all the hiking steps we did before reaching this portion of the trail. ! This also We took some time here to stroll the village but knew we still had a great distance to go. Before reaching the steps we thought the hike would be easy enough to do 2 times.....doubt had now entered our thoughts. One round might be enough!!
Onto the next town!! We kept our pace quick and we were taking off clothing layers left and right. Sweat was pouring from us. Our labored breathing only increased as steep sets of stairs upward seemed to be around every bend. Don't get me wrong the views are spectacular. It ocean the vineyards the towns. I bet when the vines are in full blown grape growing season it would look like a seen from a movie. The travel guides all say that once you visit you will fall in love with one of 2 things in cinque terra- the towns or one of the residents. And this ......is true. How could you pass up a quaint village on the water or any of the beautiful shirtless men tending the vines along the path.
At each town they check your ticket for the trail. The worst part for me was handing over a sweat soaked piece of paper each time that only got worse as we trecked.
On to town 4 and we knew we would not venture back for a 2nd round in one day. The clouds were getting gray and jess's knee was beginning to hurt. Outstreached in front was a beautiful path seeming to wander throught the olive trees. Until we get around the corner.
Side note- not only are the people here pretty but if they treck just to their houses and yes people live along the paths- they must be in such great shape from climbing these stone paths. Their butts and calves must rival The David!!
Back on track- we round the bend to come face tro face with what seems like an endless upward treck up stony stairs at an 80 degree angle. Lord help us. We forge ahead exhausted but determined to complete all 5 legs. We hike and rest hike and rest til we reach more leve ground. We pause then tackle the next set of stairs. Here's where we learn to listen to the guide book and maybe take his easier route first! On we went when we came upon an multi culti family made up of a brit and american and their multi culti daughter. This was a plus fr us since the dad was telling his daugheter the story of odiseus and his love. It took our mind off the next 10 sets of stairs while we focused on hearing the tale I had not heard since grade school. All about unwavering love and hope and true devotion to your soul mate. It was great and the daughter was very insightful in her questions as well. Even better- the thought that maybe homer simpson do a version of homer while naming who will play each role from the simpson family. Greek tragedy meets american pop culture.
Our multi culti asked us where we were from and proclaimed she has been to the stats "about a billion times!!" As they waited back at town #4 to let their mom rest her knee we said farewell and treged onto the final leg. We were starving and what kept us moving forward was the hope of food and wine. We applied one more coat of sunscreen onto our dusty sweaty faces and headed up. Along the route we saw a refuse set up for the homeless cats who all must congergate in this cove. The smell...... Well someone have not been changing the litter box enough!! We made sure they had some food and water and forged ahead. More stairsa meet us and we had come to a much slower pace by this point. As the land leveled I said to jess I was suree we were close now..... Nope. Wrong around the mountain to reveal we needed to treck one more mile before getting to the end. We had cover the 9 miles before and 10 miles is not horrible on flat land- hiking it is another story. Jess commented that my pollyanna attitude made her sick but I could not let the exhaustion frustrate. One more flight of stairs and around the bend and we reached a flatter strech. Here we ambled down the trail dripping sweat and exhausted and meeting an american couple coming from the opposite direction. The looked at us only having done a tenth of the hike so far and proclaimed-- is their much more climbing?? We're exhausted!!
Oh gosh what else did we need to hike to get to the end! How could it be harder than what we just did and if they are tired already they better stop now! We told them they had a more downhill treck and that if they took it easy they would finish the last leg on all flat paths. Thanks and onward because our stomachs were not happy.
Up down up down up down little bits here and there and then around the corner down in a vinyard was a man resembling santa clause tending his garden. I snapped a quick shot and we continued downwards. More sets of stone steps. I even stopped taking pictuires of the route because I was so tired! It was all we could do to hold It together when out we popped into hpthe last town!!!! Our arrival was time perfectly for italian siesta time meaning most of the restaurants and shops were closed.......... Tears..... Maybe a few. We walked around to a small cafe and sat.
As we looked over the guide we noted the speciality of the area is anchovies. How could I not try them. Jess was not up for it so I ordered the house special plate and she got a pannini. The plate came with an assortment of cheese salami and anchovies. Well it was now or never. I dove in and while they are a fine fish fresh they were also so salty I needed about a gallon of water after eating my allotment of 3 fish. I downed my water amd wine and hoped the bread would help soak some salt up as well. The last time I ate anything this salty I was thurstay for days. We finished our meals and feeling full but not stuffed knew there was room for my favorite treat----gelatto!!!
Over the course of our stay here I am suree we will try every flavor.
More to come soon of our hike and genoa and impending storm on the hroizon.
Ciao!!
Off we hop to check our bags and take a quick peek at the tower famous for leaning despite being surrounded by what is called the field of miracles and a huge doumo and lots of vendors selling their wares on the edge. We opt for saving as many euros as possible this day and walk to the tower instead of bus. Its nly about 2 miles to the site and we set out. After passing many delicious shops selling sandwiches and sweet treats we cross the bridge and know we are getting closer. There's a buzz in this part of town. A tourist buzz. It happens upon you almost by surprize as you navigate the surrounding shops and almost like cresting over a mountain hill - it appears- the thing we have sought. Surrounded by hundreds of tourists we see in front of us the doumo/church and to our right....there is the tower and it really is leaning. A lot. I sat and took it all in while jess went to explore and take pictures.
Now came the point in which I became an unofficial pisa photog! It started with one young couple asking if I would mind taking their picture together. Immediatly after another man asked me to oblige...and another....and another....and about 8 more. I was happy to help and the people were very nice about it. One english man even said "you seem to be the expert today would you mind??" Of course not and so I shot his pic as well. There was a brief lull and jessica was making her way back to me and then another request. Finally I took one last shot for a man who really had specifics on his picture. In turn I asked him to take mine and retire as unofficial photog of pisa for the day!
The tower itself is not as impressive compared to other marble covered buildings in europe. Its all about the leaning and sinking. After touring the coloseum and vatican all covered religious building the size of pisa is much smaller. Its use of colored "recycled" marble is what's beautiful. The green marble in the sun is stunning. Again reminding my self that the marble on this structure ways so much huge iron clamps are required to keep it attached to the facade its no wonder because of the sheer weight os each of these buildings that more have not sunk. The lean of the building is incredible. From far away its clearly leaning but when you see the base upclose that's when you can comprhend the real impact of the soft earth below giving way. They only allow 25 people up in the tower at a time and for a limited time. At 6 euros we decided it was not something toi accomplish this trip. Next time maybe. We have secured the return by throwing the coins in the fountian at treve so we are good!!!!
Time to walk around the vendors and the field of miracles before hopping back on the train to genoa.
Side not- have I already said I have a hard time remembering its genoa not genovia from princess diaries?? Oh well I am after all a self crowned princess all I need is a castle and my prince. On with the search. We finish at pisa and head back to the train station. While going through the main square we are stopped by a young man who asks us in english - please sign to help keep people off drugs? Again jessica wonders how he knew we spoke english......... They are looking for donations to continue funding their stay drug free program. The young man collecting signatures told us his story of being addicted to cocane and booze and has been clean 2 years. We congrats him on that and he asks us where we are from CA we say and get again as we often do "ohhhh I love california!! Are you famous??? The second time I've gotten this one from now on maybe is should just say yes I am. I'm the princess and deputy mayor of disney studios in burbank! Is that fame enough?? With hand shakes and a small donation of the coins in our pockets we say goodbye.
Again I think the joyed response we get regarding california is due to most people knowing where that part is located. If I said boise I don't know if the love would be as profuse!
On to the train and to genoa. We were ready to rest for our fun hike through the vineyards of cinque terra was tomorrow. On we traveled until genoa. We hop off the train and head to get bus tickets. Now....... Where is our bus stop. We search the station and finally find the right # stop. We get on and realise..... Wrong direction. This has happened to us almost every time we get to a new location. One wrong bus then a stop a walk back and start all over again. So we walk back to the station in the rain since waiting in the uncovered stop for the next bus sounded even less fun.
Back at the station we ask again and a nice driver points us to a remote spot near a shop with signs hidden by trees. This is our stop.. Packs secured we make our way across busy traffic to the bus. We hop on and all is good but the bus at rush hour is crowded. Jessica has already had one moment of being sandwiched in the doors as they attempt ti close she did not want another. Breath in and scooch forward is our method to fitting body and backpack into the train. We get to the right transfer spot, hop off and wait in the rain for our second bus that is close behind thankfully. Hop on and hope we don't miss the right stop for the hostel.
With the aid of a woman- italian- who pulled our sleeves and said hostelo?? Yes we nodded! Here she pointed and we all got off we followed here to our latest ymca style home for 2days and checked in.
This one like the others is clean and sparce. The bed....... Wow was it a bit wobbly though. If you breathed worng it swayed!! It is just a etal bunk so you can only do so much. We spent the night resting and enjoying the piece. We had dinner comprised of an apple and jerky and water with a power bar and our favorite new cookies- granolcerra digestivos!! Full of fiber and gusto!! What is gusto?? I don't know but we needed something to tide us til morning.
Sleep and showers in the am. We were dressed for our st through the vineyards and ready to burn calories and reward ourselves with a nice luch after. This hike through the vineyards is 10 miles long, which we knew. But this was a hard core hike. If you were to clasify it that way they do rapids this would be a level 3 intermediate hike no doubt!! We are in good shape and we up for it be even we had points we just had to pause and look ahead at when we would reach the next town and water!!
The hike is broken up like this. 2-3 miles between each town. You hike the trails established during the war when they needd to get supplies back and forth. There are more steep steps than I can count. You can start in the northern most town or southern which is what we did. The souther strarts out with the bridge via del'amore. A long winding path over the ocean rocks all covered in graffiti. This is where lovers once ran off from their towns to meet and that's how it got its name. At one point a tradition of placing a little padlock on the fence on the bridge signified two loves that will be locked together forever. Now couple add locks here to show their love. Its a sweet sentiment and makes me wish for a time when I will walk there with someone and lock our love together. Of course not knowing how sweaty and worn out I would be at the end..... On we hiked invigorated by the crashing waves below and the fresh air and no rain!! Had the rain kept pouring like it had the day before this would not have been possible. On we marched. It was a medium level hike at this point and we were making good time and getting a great workout as well until we were trapped behind a group of german tourists. Now jess has begun calling me nascar because I walk so fast. I'm trying to slow the pace but it's hard. So if I hear hey nascar behind me I know its time to slow.
But back to the germans. Our travel guide wqrned us we will pass many german tour groups with walking sticks. Death spike is more like it. We came to a group oif 30+ germans all armed with their metal spike tipped walking sticks. They jam those things so deep into the ground with each step I was worried if I passed them and they did not pay attention that jess or I could lose a toe!!!! I'm werious here. I worry about bringing ny knitting needles made of plastic and bamboo on a flight for fear they may think they are weapons and here this senior group is so well armed on the trail with sausages and spikes at least I know if we,re attacked I can shout "my great great great grandparents on my grandmothers side were german please protect us!!!" So we weaved forward only when the spiked filled obsticle course would allow. They were moving at a good pace for seniors-active seniors infact- but for nascar this is ssslllooowwwwww.finally we came to a conjested slow as a picture nook came upon us. We were muddles in the middle with the mass until the best part. when one of the leaders looked at us shouted something in german and like the sea they parted to let us through with smiles and spike safely held to their sided. For the rest of the hike it was our goal to remain ahead of the germans. when we slowed I reminded jess the germans were coming the germans were coming and we would pick up the pace again!
Onto the 2 town which was a bit steep and a little muddy but still a good hike.
It was not til we wound around the first 2/3 of the 2 leg to the 3rd town that we saw the staiirs. Not just a flight but about 30 steep flights up the side of the hill. Did I mention they were steep? We started out strong and forced ourselves to finish to the top. About 1/3 of the way up sweat was covering every inch of our bodies. It was not raining but my clothes were stuck to my back! No wonder the travel guide said going north to south would be easier. This would have been downhill stairs then.
When we reach the top we have also reached town #3 and a sign proclaiming we have successfully climbed the 382 steps to reach the villlage!! Yes 382 and that does not include all the hiking steps we did before reaching this portion of the trail. ! This also We took some time here to stroll the village but knew we still had a great distance to go. Before reaching the steps we thought the hike would be easy enough to do 2 times.....doubt had now entered our thoughts. One round might be enough!!
Onto the next town!! We kept our pace quick and we were taking off clothing layers left and right. Sweat was pouring from us. Our labored breathing only increased as steep sets of stairs upward seemed to be around every bend. Don't get me wrong the views are spectacular. It ocean the vineyards the towns. I bet when the vines are in full blown grape growing season it would look like a seen from a movie. The travel guides all say that once you visit you will fall in love with one of 2 things in cinque terra- the towns or one of the residents. And this ......is true. How could you pass up a quaint village on the water or any of the beautiful shirtless men tending the vines along the path.
At each town they check your ticket for the trail. The worst part for me was handing over a sweat soaked piece of paper each time that only got worse as we trecked.
On to town 4 and we knew we would not venture back for a 2nd round in one day. The clouds were getting gray and jess's knee was beginning to hurt. Outstreached in front was a beautiful path seeming to wander throught the olive trees. Until we get around the corner.
Side note- not only are the people here pretty but if they treck just to their houses and yes people live along the paths- they must be in such great shape from climbing these stone paths. Their butts and calves must rival The David!!
Back on track- we round the bend to come face tro face with what seems like an endless upward treck up stony stairs at an 80 degree angle. Lord help us. We forge ahead exhausted but determined to complete all 5 legs. We hike and rest hike and rest til we reach more leve ground. We pause then tackle the next set of stairs. Here's where we learn to listen to the guide book and maybe take his easier route first! On we went when we came upon an multi culti family made up of a brit and american and their multi culti daughter. This was a plus fr us since the dad was telling his daugheter the story of odiseus and his love. It took our mind off the next 10 sets of stairs while we focused on hearing the tale I had not heard since grade school. All about unwavering love and hope and true devotion to your soul mate. It was great and the daughter was very insightful in her questions as well. Even better- the thought that maybe homer simpson do a version of homer while naming who will play each role from the simpson family. Greek tragedy meets american pop culture.
Our multi culti asked us where we were from and proclaimed she has been to the stats "about a billion times!!" As they waited back at town #4 to let their mom rest her knee we said farewell and treged onto the final leg. We were starving and what kept us moving forward was the hope of food and wine. We applied one more coat of sunscreen onto our dusty sweaty faces and headed up. Along the route we saw a refuse set up for the homeless cats who all must congergate in this cove. The smell...... Well someone have not been changing the litter box enough!! We made sure they had some food and water and forged ahead. More stairsa meet us and we had come to a much slower pace by this point. As the land leveled I said to jess I was suree we were close now..... Nope. Wrong around the mountain to reveal we needed to treck one more mile before getting to the end. We had cover the 9 miles before and 10 miles is not horrible on flat land- hiking it is another story. Jess commented that my pollyanna attitude made her sick but I could not let the exhaustion frustrate. One more flight of stairs and around the bend and we reached a flatter strech. Here we ambled down the trail dripping sweat and exhausted and meeting an american couple coming from the opposite direction. The looked at us only having done a tenth of the hike so far and proclaimed-- is their much more climbing?? We're exhausted!!
Oh gosh what else did we need to hike to get to the end! How could it be harder than what we just did and if they are tired already they better stop now! We told them they had a more downhill treck and that if they took it easy they would finish the last leg on all flat paths. Thanks and onward because our stomachs were not happy.
Up down up down up down little bits here and there and then around the corner down in a vinyard was a man resembling santa clause tending his garden. I snapped a quick shot and we continued downwards. More sets of stone steps. I even stopped taking pictuires of the route because I was so tired! It was all we could do to hold It together when out we popped into hpthe last town!!!! Our arrival was time perfectly for italian siesta time meaning most of the restaurants and shops were closed.......... Tears..... Maybe a few. We walked around to a small cafe and sat.
As we looked over the guide we noted the speciality of the area is anchovies. How could I not try them. Jess was not up for it so I ordered the house special plate and she got a pannini. The plate came with an assortment of cheese salami and anchovies. Well it was now or never. I dove in and while they are a fine fish fresh they were also so salty I needed about a gallon of water after eating my allotment of 3 fish. I downed my water amd wine and hoped the bread would help soak some salt up as well. The last time I ate anything this salty I was thurstay for days. We finished our meals and feeling full but not stuffed knew there was room for my favorite treat----gelatto!!!
Over the course of our stay here I am suree we will try every flavor.
More to come soon of our hike and genoa and impending storm on the hroizon.
Ciao!!
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Was the David the first supermodel?????
So another early morning and breakfast at the sound of music hostel is just ok. Hard roll butter coffee and juice. Megar compaired to the lavish spread of atrani. It's included in the cost of the rooms so I can't complain, with food consumed and clean clothes on our backs we set out to hit the museums....with no reservations...... This was our first mistake. We head first to the academia to see the david. The no reservations line was long, about an hour. But not horrible. The rain was waining above anmd we were in an alcove that provided protection.
Inside we walked past many interesting pieces. No cameras allowed so I have no proof I actually saw anything but when you come to the david it is amazing. The shear porportions of the statue are awesome. I've known it was a 12 ft tall piece but beautifuly lit and in the center of the muse......... Its beautiful. I know what your thinking its pretty because he's naked but its way more than that. (Please feel free to insert any funny penis jokes about size when approate). The hands and feet of this statue are massive. I think bigger hands than a human head. And the detail is what you really see in person. His hands have veins and knuckles. I'm struck by the idea that the david and many of the statues carved and put in the various gyms in rome they were the first supermodels. Ideal forms of the human figure that people would strive to recreate in themselves. And it is perfection indead. Its insane how gifted and skilled you would be to carve out the muscles to show such tension and extension in a slight movement.
I hated not being able to photograph this.
We finished this muse and went searching for jessies sisters cooking school. After walking up and down the streets asking anyone we knew we gave up with out success. We were right by the prescious stones muse so for 2 euro we took a cance. It was no photos as well but very interesting. Marble pictures and polished stones. Carved rocks all fill this place. Its no david but and interesting place none the less.
With a potential wait at the uffizzi gallery that houses the venus de milo we headed across town. 3 hour wait for the gallery. But we surmised that was the max wait time. So let's do it its in every guide and travel book how coukd we not. After 2 hours in the rain amd cold we were passed the point oif no return. Every time the line moved we were sure we were almost in. Once we got to 3 hours we had to stay to make it in. 3 1/2 hrs amd we we flooding towards the rope and git stopped at us. We stood there lamost in tears I could not help it. Paired with the freezing tempature and down pour of rain it was miserable conditions. I could not feel my hands and my back was aching. To keep from sceeaming and from eating my hand I was so hungry I ate a pack of gum. Gross I know but it was all I had. I was desperate and not leaving the line for anything. 20 minuteslater we were finally ushered in....... To security.
I took with me only my coat my hat camera and passport and money. No bag no metal. Guess who had to keep walking though the metal detector? Me, over anmd over again. I don't know what was setting it off and finally he could see I had nothing on me, he let me thriugh. We wisked to the ticked booth got our pass and ran toi the next room........ To wait some more. I was really done now. How much coukld they torture us. It was almost 4 and we had not eaten anthing beside the hard roll for breakfast and for me a pack of gum and now waiting for en eternity. Its taught me one thing in the future all museum truips will be checked before hand incase so a whole day is not bwaisted waiting.
The venus is beautiful and to be so gifted to paint something like that was amazing.
We walked through the rest of the rooms and again no cameras allowed but we took it all in.
When we finally left the muse we consulted our guide book for eating advice after the day befores horrible excursion. We found a place called 'ino where they serve a sandwich made to order with a glass of house wine. Even if we had not been starving we would have loved it. The bread the cheese the salimi........no veggies here either though. We devoured our food and sat to enjoy being in a warm dry place.
Refreshed we set out to the town center. The other muse had closed at 5 so it was strolling anmd shopping. I have yet to buy one thing mostly because its expensive and we have had no time. We walked the square and jessi found a leather store she just "had to check out". Jessie is an easy mark fir a salesman let me telll you. She tried on 3 jackets and while I admit they are cute they were very very exopensive. On sale the cheapest one was 480 euro... Meaning at least 600 US. But she was sold. They charmed her and showed her pictures of the celebs who owned the jacket. She was in. They even told her they would adjust the sleeves and have it ready in 1 hour. she paid and was elated. The sales man seemed to feel bad I was not buying anything. Well 400 euro jacket was not on my lists. What did I want? Boots I said casually knowing they did not sell shoes and I woud not feel oprewssured into buying something.
He whipped out a small map and told me just where to go for boots. I could geta great pair at such and such and also we should go dine at this restaurant. Nie suggestions but when your trying to stick to 50euros a day for hotel and food there is niot lots of wiggle room. Oside note. Jessies purchase means she wants to eat a power bar a jerky for dinner every night. I guess I'm dining alone in italy...sigh....
So we leave the shop with their list of recommendations and head out to wait for the jacket to be taylored. Jessie was eager to have m$e find the boot shopp and find boots. Every corner she asked me oohh how about those wait look at those. Little does she know I kept us walking purposly away from the boot shop beasue I would like more than 30 minutes to make that decision and...... I was not buying 400 boots. She's 21 what can I say. I stick to a 2 euro coffee and with for the time to run out on our waiting. Jessie could not contain her need to make me buy something. Every corner was a suggestion. We she suffering buyer guilt after spending so much? Tbd I suppose. The jacket would be ready soon and we head back to the shop. They give us each a glass of wine as the jacket was being brought from the tailor. We chat with a couple from frezno who was in there as well buying 2 beautiful jackets.
With the purchase complete we head back to our 20 a night hostel no dinner to be had and pack for the next days travels. It was raining once again and I would love one more day in florence to walk around and explore. Back to the bus where we run into sandra again. She spent the day at the movies and having a nice lunch. We chatted the whole crowded ride back and we all glad that in the dark rain to have 3 of us for the 1 mile treck to the hostel. At one point a man in a long dark coat was walking a few paces behind us. We quickened our pace and made it safely ti the hostel. And so did he. He was just one of the guests but on a dark rainy road a tall man in a black coat is not a nice thing. We grab water and some snacks for me and head to the room to pack. On the road again will be my theme song. With more chatting with the girls and jessie showing off her purchase the night flew buy. It was time to go to sleep and be ready foir another day.
Goodbye florence......I will come back someday soon.
Inside we walked past many interesting pieces. No cameras allowed so I have no proof I actually saw anything but when you come to the david it is amazing. The shear porportions of the statue are awesome. I've known it was a 12 ft tall piece but beautifuly lit and in the center of the muse......... Its beautiful. I know what your thinking its pretty because he's naked but its way more than that. (Please feel free to insert any funny penis jokes about size when approate). The hands and feet of this statue are massive. I think bigger hands than a human head. And the detail is what you really see in person. His hands have veins and knuckles. I'm struck by the idea that the david and many of the statues carved and put in the various gyms in rome they were the first supermodels. Ideal forms of the human figure that people would strive to recreate in themselves. And it is perfection indead. Its insane how gifted and skilled you would be to carve out the muscles to show such tension and extension in a slight movement.
I hated not being able to photograph this.
We finished this muse and went searching for jessies sisters cooking school. After walking up and down the streets asking anyone we knew we gave up with out success. We were right by the prescious stones muse so for 2 euro we took a cance. It was no photos as well but very interesting. Marble pictures and polished stones. Carved rocks all fill this place. Its no david but and interesting place none the less.
With a potential wait at the uffizzi gallery that houses the venus de milo we headed across town. 3 hour wait for the gallery. But we surmised that was the max wait time. So let's do it its in every guide and travel book how coukd we not. After 2 hours in the rain amd cold we were passed the point oif no return. Every time the line moved we were sure we were almost in. Once we got to 3 hours we had to stay to make it in. 3 1/2 hrs amd we we flooding towards the rope and git stopped at us. We stood there lamost in tears I could not help it. Paired with the freezing tempature and down pour of rain it was miserable conditions. I could not feel my hands and my back was aching. To keep from sceeaming and from eating my hand I was so hungry I ate a pack of gum. Gross I know but it was all I had. I was desperate and not leaving the line for anything. 20 minuteslater we were finally ushered in....... To security.
I took with me only my coat my hat camera and passport and money. No bag no metal. Guess who had to keep walking though the metal detector? Me, over anmd over again. I don't know what was setting it off and finally he could see I had nothing on me, he let me thriugh. We wisked to the ticked booth got our pass and ran toi the next room........ To wait some more. I was really done now. How much coukld they torture us. It was almost 4 and we had not eaten anthing beside the hard roll for breakfast and for me a pack of gum and now waiting for en eternity. Its taught me one thing in the future all museum truips will be checked before hand incase so a whole day is not bwaisted waiting.
The venus is beautiful and to be so gifted to paint something like that was amazing.
We walked through the rest of the rooms and again no cameras allowed but we took it all in.
When we finally left the muse we consulted our guide book for eating advice after the day befores horrible excursion. We found a place called 'ino where they serve a sandwich made to order with a glass of house wine. Even if we had not been starving we would have loved it. The bread the cheese the salimi........no veggies here either though. We devoured our food and sat to enjoy being in a warm dry place.
Refreshed we set out to the town center. The other muse had closed at 5 so it was strolling anmd shopping. I have yet to buy one thing mostly because its expensive and we have had no time. We walked the square and jessi found a leather store she just "had to check out". Jessie is an easy mark fir a salesman let me telll you. She tried on 3 jackets and while I admit they are cute they were very very exopensive. On sale the cheapest one was 480 euro... Meaning at least 600 US. But she was sold. They charmed her and showed her pictures of the celebs who owned the jacket. She was in. They even told her they would adjust the sleeves and have it ready in 1 hour. she paid and was elated. The sales man seemed to feel bad I was not buying anything. Well 400 euro jacket was not on my lists. What did I want? Boots I said casually knowing they did not sell shoes and I woud not feel oprewssured into buying something.
He whipped out a small map and told me just where to go for boots. I could geta great pair at such and such and also we should go dine at this restaurant. Nie suggestions but when your trying to stick to 50euros a day for hotel and food there is niot lots of wiggle room. Oside note. Jessies purchase means she wants to eat a power bar a jerky for dinner every night. I guess I'm dining alone in italy...sigh....
So we leave the shop with their list of recommendations and head out to wait for the jacket to be taylored. Jessie was eager to have m$e find the boot shopp and find boots. Every corner she asked me oohh how about those wait look at those. Little does she know I kept us walking purposly away from the boot shop beasue I would like more than 30 minutes to make that decision and...... I was not buying 400 boots. She's 21 what can I say. I stick to a 2 euro coffee and with for the time to run out on our waiting. Jessie could not contain her need to make me buy something. Every corner was a suggestion. We she suffering buyer guilt after spending so much? Tbd I suppose. The jacket would be ready soon and we head back to the shop. They give us each a glass of wine as the jacket was being brought from the tailor. We chat with a couple from frezno who was in there as well buying 2 beautiful jackets.
With the purchase complete we head back to our 20 a night hostel no dinner to be had and pack for the next days travels. It was raining once again and I would love one more day in florence to walk around and explore. Back to the bus where we run into sandra again. She spent the day at the movies and having a nice lunch. We chatted the whole crowded ride back and we all glad that in the dark rain to have 3 of us for the 1 mile treck to the hostel. At one point a man in a long dark coat was walking a few paces behind us. We quickened our pace and made it safely ti the hostel. And so did he. He was just one of the guests but on a dark rainy road a tall man in a black coat is not a nice thing. We grab water and some snacks for me and head to the room to pack. On the road again will be my theme song. With more chatting with the girls and jessie showing off her purchase the night flew buy. It was time to go to sleep and be ready foir another day.
Goodbye florence......I will come back someday soon.
Are there veggies in italy?
Here's the latest of typing from the train. So I left off after a lunch at luigis I believe. We dined on our snacks and then back to the room for a pit stop. We ran into rebecca and clem aj and clems girlfriend from poland- monika. They had spent the afternoon on the beach and were just walking in. We told them we would be back for a late drink after we went to amalfi and andrea.
We sat and talked more with rebecca about music and life and just the regular girl talk we all enjoy. Men-specifically italians currently do come in beautiful packages. With only one full day in each stop of the trip we have to keep moving all the time to fit everything in. We grabbed our bags and back over the hill to the paper muse.
This was facisinating. Amalfi was one of the biggest paper producers in the world at one time. Of the 60 paper mills open amalfi had 18 of them. I will say feeling the texture of their paper makes you believe this was the best. My favorite was in a corner sat their original coffee pot from the mill. And not much has changed. Its a little pressed coffee maker.
We left the mill and thanked the cureator for tour. On to shop for postcards and maybe stamps. Oh and maybe some gelatto too.
With cards mailed and gelatto in hand (I hade coffee jess coconut and banana) jess ordered a large cone and if you had seen the look on the ladies face you would have laughed. I get the feeling its only boys who indulge with that size cone.
Ah well back to atraini and over the hill before an evening of vino.
Back at the hostel we get dressed in less smelly clothes for the evening, brush our hair and add an extra swipe of deoderant for good measure...... And walk back over the hill to amalfi. This was a day we were going to hike to the next small town but walking between the 2 was enough!
It was 902 and we strolled towards the church steps. Before we even reached them there was andrea all dressed and looking sharp. Ciao ciao to us and he showed us over to the local restaurant where people were closely watching the milan soccer game on tv. Andrea got wine for us and explained his friend marco is a liar and he did not show up. His loss. We sat and talked with andrea and learned about his life. He was a man who love the big citys and wants to be out in the world but sick parents meant he had to return to care for them. I think he must long for visitors to connect him to the outside word he misses so much. I too would become lost in his position. Don't get me wrong these towns are great for a day or a week maybe even a month but they are so small this is all there is. We sat til about 11 and then farewell as jesse was falling asleep. Don't forget we had our mile treck back to the town we are staying. I hope andrea enjoyed the evening as I did learning a bit about him.
The walk back was bitter cold. Being that close to the ocean has its perks- the beach- and downsides - the coastal winds. We made it to the town square in atrani and were greeted by luigi and our rag tag gang of traveler friends. Instant we join them and tell of our wine in amalfi we pull up seats and join in. We discussed everything from politics to vino to luigis green jacket and what everyone at the tables story was. Ohh I almost forgot to mention duke.
While hiking in the hills of a neighboring town the day before aj came across a dog. He looked hungry and starved for attention so aj obliged on both counts. The dog now named duke per aj followed him through the hills until he reached the end if his trail. Aj shooed duke away and off into the town he went and aj returned to amalfi. The next day while playing with clem and monica on the beach who shows up and runs up to aj????? Duke. So he left his town and came after aj!! For the rest of the afternoon and evening duke hung out with us all. A permenant guard for us. Luigi has a no dogs in the restaurant rule but duke follows no rules. when luigis head was turned at one point duke walked into the bar under our table and sat down by aj. We had barely noticed and it was not til almost 2am that luigi would notice either.
5 bottles and 5 hrs later it was 4am and even luigi looked tired. We paid and took one group picture and headed to our rooms. Dragging behind us was duke who I'm sure thought he would have anitherr cold night in the streets. Clem monika and aj who's rooms were down the hall from us waited outside and tooks their coats and covered duke and snuck him into our hotel. He stayed quiet as a mouse the whole time. Well what I should say is duke was quiet. Aj and clem made so much noise the english woman on the first floor came out yelling.... She was not happy to be awake. It was going to be a brutally early morning for us as well.
Up at 7 the eat and check out and hike to the bus stop. Thanks to some good sdvice from andrea we had a shorter but more senic drive to the train station in solarno. Hopped the train and away we went onto florence. Of the train rides just make me feel like I'm waisting time. Instead of romaing around the city absorbing it all. Next trip will be different. So onto florence. The train ride included sitting in the wrong spot 2xs and getting yelled at my the ticket taker. What can I say I was tired and forgot to date my euro rail. Hello did she not understand I was up til 4am with a bunch of people drinking wine!!!!
Aahhh well. We finally made it to florence around 5. Yes all day on trains and buses. And now in florence we had to find the hostel. With megar directions we hop on the bus. The WRONG bus. Two stops later in the wrong direction with our packs on our backs and we wander around for anouther 1/2 hour until in rush hour bus traffic we get it right. Nothing more fun than being sweaty from a day of schlepping and the be squashed into a bus with other sweaty unhappy people.
We reach our stop and a sweet lady points to me and then to the hostel sign. Excellent!! There it is. Well almost. Now its about 7 and did I mention since we arrived in the afternoon its been raining. So we pass through the entrance and see a mile long winding road in the rainy dark night in a forest leading to what could be our hostel or a serial killer in the bushes. Jessica already thinks I walk too fast and now she knows I can go even faster. Soaking wet we round the bend and there is a house enrance straight out of the sound of music. Seriously. All brightly yellow and light up in this dark rainy night. Good thing the outside was cheery because the man at the desk was much more adams family lurch that happy bell hop. Sigh. Our keys our sheets and our bed number are thrust into our hands. Now only 2 more flights of stairs and ill be able to unload this pack. If my cardio ability has not increased greatly from lugging this pack around I don't know what will.
Into the room-
We are again in a sparce ymca style room with 10 beds. It smells like hippie. Really. Pacholie is everywhere. I fling open the balcony door to releave it a bit but only briefly because its freezzing cold out side. We dump our stuff and make our beds and decide to head out for a bit in the town maybe find some dinner.
Walk back down the hill a mile to the bus and we headed to the duomo in the center of town. Since things are closed on mondays anyway we took pics of the outside kniwing we would be back the next day for more. We llooked at the high priced eateries open and opted for a smaller selfserve type place. Big mistake. We should have chosen mcdonalds instead. Not even heated all the way though the food was medecore and bland. And they never offer veggies or salads here. Its pizza pasta and sandwich and that's all. I need vegetables!!! if I'm in the center of italy you must do better than bland and give me a side salad or a pepper or somerthing.. At least we finally had something to eat.
With rain coming down harder now we ran for the bus and headed back. Ugh....the mile to the hostel. If you thought we walked fast with the bags on our back you should have seen us with out them in the pitch dark. Once back in the safety of lurches conclave of hostelers we decided we should do laundry. I've worn my clothed so many days they may escape on their own. And so we grab the piles pay 6 for the was and dry (6 I know but I needed clean clothes!!). And headed downstairs out the kitchen doors aroubd the back of the hostel house in the dark down a long path marked it show you laundry this way to a stone basement hallway 100 yrd long and with a weird light switch. If we felt unsafe in the forest now we felt worse. We shoved the clothes in hit start and ran back to the warm safe hostel. For 35 minutes until we went back to dry. I got the better washer and dryer by chance. My clothes were almost dry from the crazy spin cycle and the dry was on fire. Jessies was wet clother in a warm dryer meaning when all was finished she layed out her cothes to dry in th room. Oh well you win some you lose some.
We prepped for bed and got to know some of our bunkmates. The aussie who's traveling around just hitting the "reset" button so to speak. She's a weathered 45-50 and tough as nails. She's spent the last few weeks going around the northern part of italy.
We also met snadra from sweden. He english was very good and puncuated with pop culture words like yeah and ahh cool! She also gave me new slang to use to describe some of our fellow travelers multi-culti. She's taking time to travel before going back to school to do childrens phys therapy. She is a hoot!!
Well it was time for bed and with clean clothes and bags put away it was time to sleep for tomorrow would be another early morning of museums and walking.
Onto the tales of florence and my hunt for veggies in the next email.
Ciao hrh zp!
We sat and talked more with rebecca about music and life and just the regular girl talk we all enjoy. Men-specifically italians currently do come in beautiful packages. With only one full day in each stop of the trip we have to keep moving all the time to fit everything in. We grabbed our bags and back over the hill to the paper muse.
This was facisinating. Amalfi was one of the biggest paper producers in the world at one time. Of the 60 paper mills open amalfi had 18 of them. I will say feeling the texture of their paper makes you believe this was the best. My favorite was in a corner sat their original coffee pot from the mill. And not much has changed. Its a little pressed coffee maker.
We left the mill and thanked the cureator for tour. On to shop for postcards and maybe stamps. Oh and maybe some gelatto too.
With cards mailed and gelatto in hand (I hade coffee jess coconut and banana) jess ordered a large cone and if you had seen the look on the ladies face you would have laughed. I get the feeling its only boys who indulge with that size cone.
Ah well back to atraini and over the hill before an evening of vino.
Back at the hostel we get dressed in less smelly clothes for the evening, brush our hair and add an extra swipe of deoderant for good measure...... And walk back over the hill to amalfi. This was a day we were going to hike to the next small town but walking between the 2 was enough!
It was 902 and we strolled towards the church steps. Before we even reached them there was andrea all dressed and looking sharp. Ciao ciao to us and he showed us over to the local restaurant where people were closely watching the milan soccer game on tv. Andrea got wine for us and explained his friend marco is a liar and he did not show up. His loss. We sat and talked with andrea and learned about his life. He was a man who love the big citys and wants to be out in the world but sick parents meant he had to return to care for them. I think he must long for visitors to connect him to the outside word he misses so much. I too would become lost in his position. Don't get me wrong these towns are great for a day or a week maybe even a month but they are so small this is all there is. We sat til about 11 and then farewell as jesse was falling asleep. Don't forget we had our mile treck back to the town we are staying. I hope andrea enjoyed the evening as I did learning a bit about him.
The walk back was bitter cold. Being that close to the ocean has its perks- the beach- and downsides - the coastal winds. We made it to the town square in atrani and were greeted by luigi and our rag tag gang of traveler friends. Instant we join them and tell of our wine in amalfi we pull up seats and join in. We discussed everything from politics to vino to luigis green jacket and what everyone at the tables story was. Ohh I almost forgot to mention duke.
While hiking in the hills of a neighboring town the day before aj came across a dog. He looked hungry and starved for attention so aj obliged on both counts. The dog now named duke per aj followed him through the hills until he reached the end if his trail. Aj shooed duke away and off into the town he went and aj returned to amalfi. The next day while playing with clem and monica on the beach who shows up and runs up to aj????? Duke. So he left his town and came after aj!! For the rest of the afternoon and evening duke hung out with us all. A permenant guard for us. Luigi has a no dogs in the restaurant rule but duke follows no rules. when luigis head was turned at one point duke walked into the bar under our table and sat down by aj. We had barely noticed and it was not til almost 2am that luigi would notice either.
5 bottles and 5 hrs later it was 4am and even luigi looked tired. We paid and took one group picture and headed to our rooms. Dragging behind us was duke who I'm sure thought he would have anitherr cold night in the streets. Clem monika and aj who's rooms were down the hall from us waited outside and tooks their coats and covered duke and snuck him into our hotel. He stayed quiet as a mouse the whole time. Well what I should say is duke was quiet. Aj and clem made so much noise the english woman on the first floor came out yelling.... She was not happy to be awake. It was going to be a brutally early morning for us as well.
Up at 7 the eat and check out and hike to the bus stop. Thanks to some good sdvice from andrea we had a shorter but more senic drive to the train station in solarno. Hopped the train and away we went onto florence. Of the train rides just make me feel like I'm waisting time. Instead of romaing around the city absorbing it all. Next trip will be different. So onto florence. The train ride included sitting in the wrong spot 2xs and getting yelled at my the ticket taker. What can I say I was tired and forgot to date my euro rail. Hello did she not understand I was up til 4am with a bunch of people drinking wine!!!!
Aahhh well. We finally made it to florence around 5. Yes all day on trains and buses. And now in florence we had to find the hostel. With megar directions we hop on the bus. The WRONG bus. Two stops later in the wrong direction with our packs on our backs and we wander around for anouther 1/2 hour until in rush hour bus traffic we get it right. Nothing more fun than being sweaty from a day of schlepping and the be squashed into a bus with other sweaty unhappy people.
We reach our stop and a sweet lady points to me and then to the hostel sign. Excellent!! There it is. Well almost. Now its about 7 and did I mention since we arrived in the afternoon its been raining. So we pass through the entrance and see a mile long winding road in the rainy dark night in a forest leading to what could be our hostel or a serial killer in the bushes. Jessica already thinks I walk too fast and now she knows I can go even faster. Soaking wet we round the bend and there is a house enrance straight out of the sound of music. Seriously. All brightly yellow and light up in this dark rainy night. Good thing the outside was cheery because the man at the desk was much more adams family lurch that happy bell hop. Sigh. Our keys our sheets and our bed number are thrust into our hands. Now only 2 more flights of stairs and ill be able to unload this pack. If my cardio ability has not increased greatly from lugging this pack around I don't know what will.
Into the room-
We are again in a sparce ymca style room with 10 beds. It smells like hippie. Really. Pacholie is everywhere. I fling open the balcony door to releave it a bit but only briefly because its freezzing cold out side. We dump our stuff and make our beds and decide to head out for a bit in the town maybe find some dinner.
Walk back down the hill a mile to the bus and we headed to the duomo in the center of town. Since things are closed on mondays anyway we took pics of the outside kniwing we would be back the next day for more. We llooked at the high priced eateries open and opted for a smaller selfserve type place. Big mistake. We should have chosen mcdonalds instead. Not even heated all the way though the food was medecore and bland. And they never offer veggies or salads here. Its pizza pasta and sandwich and that's all. I need vegetables!!! if I'm in the center of italy you must do better than bland and give me a side salad or a pepper or somerthing.. At least we finally had something to eat.
With rain coming down harder now we ran for the bus and headed back. Ugh....the mile to the hostel. If you thought we walked fast with the bags on our back you should have seen us with out them in the pitch dark. Once back in the safety of lurches conclave of hostelers we decided we should do laundry. I've worn my clothed so many days they may escape on their own. And so we grab the piles pay 6 for the was and dry (6 I know but I needed clean clothes!!). And headed downstairs out the kitchen doors aroubd the back of the hostel house in the dark down a long path marked it show you laundry this way to a stone basement hallway 100 yrd long and with a weird light switch. If we felt unsafe in the forest now we felt worse. We shoved the clothes in hit start and ran back to the warm safe hostel. For 35 minutes until we went back to dry. I got the better washer and dryer by chance. My clothes were almost dry from the crazy spin cycle and the dry was on fire. Jessies was wet clother in a warm dryer meaning when all was finished she layed out her cothes to dry in th room. Oh well you win some you lose some.
We prepped for bed and got to know some of our bunkmates. The aussie who's traveling around just hitting the "reset" button so to speak. She's a weathered 45-50 and tough as nails. She's spent the last few weeks going around the northern part of italy.
We also met snadra from sweden. He english was very good and puncuated with pop culture words like yeah and ahh cool! She also gave me new slang to use to describe some of our fellow travelers multi-culti. She's taking time to travel before going back to school to do childrens phys therapy. She is a hoot!!
Well it was time for bed and with clean clothes and bags put away it was time to sleep for tomorrow would be another early morning of museums and walking.
Onto the tales of florence and my hunt for veggies in the next email.
Ciao hrh zp!
Italian election time
Let's see where did I leave off? I think I did the vat and introed our friends serge and christina. I cant remember what I told you of the sistene chapel but here goes. You walk for about a mile with hundreds of people. And a reminder we really have come at a low tourist time so this is mild. Each time we enterend a new room we were expecting the micelango ceiling and were disapointed around so many corners that when you get to the actual church a bit of disapointment come across you. That coupled with being jostelled down miles of other halls with painted ceilings statues and people your ready to get the heck out. I was so glad I brought a power bar in my bag or I would have been a gonner. We walked the rest of the museum and then a brief stop to mail a card from vatacan city and we were off to the next destination.... The parthanon.
From the vat we did the 2 mile treck to the parth. We spoted more fountains and some fun shops along the road. Here is where I finally got a gelatto. My first love of italy- coffee second love caffe gelatto! As we walked we spotted a fun irish pub and a cute shop with fine scarves and jackets. But no time to shop and eat we needed to get the the parthanon. Upon arriving we found this was an election heavy area. News vans and election supporters along with the tourists made this the busiest place in the area. It was a sea of people going in and coming out. This is another massive building covered in more marble "recycled" from the coloseum. after walking for a bit inside we decided befoire the grey clouds above became worse we should begin the 4 mile hike back to the hostel.
Passing the irish pub for a second time we knew we could not pass it up. So in we went. In italy I was sittinng in a pub drinking a beer and having some excellent roasted veggies. It was so good. And after eating just bread and caffe along with a power bar and almonds almost anuthing would be delicious. Now while dining we spotted a man or should I say peter pan all growed up across the street. The 55 year old man was wearing a peter pan hat. Givin the old arched storfront made of brink gave me a feeling of being in disneyland. Yes you read that right a grown man in a green felt hat picking of clothes from this shop. I have a photo for you when I return. We finished or beer and set off on the way back. The weather was a bit gloomy and since its been sputtering rain ever since we arrived being a bit damp at all tmes has just become standard. So off again on the streets of rome. Well we made it almost the whole we when we came to a spot where nothing was familiar......... We walked a few blocks left........ Nope ....... A few blocks right...... Nope.... And so we walked all the way back to a point we knew was familiar. Adding about another mile of lost trecking to our day. Well when we found the err of our directions we were cold and tired. It was time to shower and get to bed since the next day we had a mile hike to the metro to get to naples for a day in pompeii and then onto amalfi.
The hostel here in rome is like a ymca. There are really travelers of all ages here. The best are the tweens. Tonight the french kids are causing trouble. Instead of keeping to their seperate boy and girl areas they are co mingling. How do I know? Well a lot of yelling and screaming followed by the head guy coming up stairs to telll them in broken french that no boys upstairs!!!! Just as the 2 shake their head and start waling down the stairs the girls door flings open and out trots another offender with a huge smile. That and a ringlett crowned girl waving and shouting goodbye while her girlfriend erupt in laughter behind her. Ahhhh those are the days.
Anyway.... Jess and I were beat. A day of so much trecking and as jess says my speedwalking pace is maddening and ehausting, she had to just sleep. 9pm eyes closed. 645am eyes barely open. She is not adjusting to the time change very well. I on the other hand am a goodmorning sunshine bluebird here in europe. Its a sign that I should live here at least part of the year. Ill see what my future prince will set me up with.
Ok so sleep. we did for a while - got up at 5 to read about what we would be seeing the next day and packed my bags. I did not bring a lot but everytime I put it on my shoulders I wish I had even less. Of course its a great way to continue training with out the hard core tears inducing beating I'm use to. Regarding fashion here I'm at home. the italians wear jeans and black 2 of my favorite things all the time. The bad thing is I've been wearing my jeans for 4 days of travel...... They are getting washed soon..... Very very soon......
The kids here...... Well purple and pink are very popular with the boys. It really is like an episode of the gottis. Except the swearing is in italian. The women dress in very expensive clothes as well. Appearance and high priced close are the thing here. Its style unlike any I have seen anywhere else. They regulary go out for walks before dinner to just stroll and I think show off their latest fancy "church" clothes as my grams would say. And we have seen many expensive suits and even 2 full cordory suits on men in the last day. Interesting for sure.
But day 3 was upon us and here we were saving 1 euro and walking the endless mile to the metro and hoppin the subway to the train. Most of my money here has been spent on transport and lodging. Food is coming in a low 3 place and souveniers.....tbd. But we take the train to naples and its a great ride. We are on a 1st class ticket as recommended by everyone we spoke with since 2class really means no air conditioning. And on these stuffy traing you need the air.
We arrive in naples, check our bags and head to a day in pompeii- a town destroyed when now inactive volcano vesuvius erupted. The town was wiped out but after 300 years of excavation large amounts of the town still remain along with the bodies of many that were covered in ash. Ill be honest with you but I was bored out of my skull here. It all looks the same and the directions were so maddening I was not having fun. Oh well after 2 hours we were done. Time to eat in the pompeii cafeteria and head to more ruins. In the caff, jess had a eyes bigger than her stomach moment. 18 euros later she was regretting getting and eating all of it. Pasta a bowl os sugared fruit and a nutella and pastery dessert later and she bagan a sugar high and sugar low rollercoaster ride. Ah the joy and misery of youth. The thing I'm having a hard time finding is veggies. I miss my broccoli. But I'm sure ill be missing the croissants and butter once I return home.
From pompeii we hopped the subway to heruclean or erculano as they say here. This being a smaller more contained ruins site was far more interesting. Its brings back how civilized these thriving cities were just as forward thinking as we are even down to the fast that they offered a medieval equilivant of fast food. Literally there were flower pot size bins filled with food that as the people drove their cart through town they could pull up to the stand and order take out. Crazy right? Their tile work is stunning thousands and even millions of itty bitty tiles together form and paintings are slightly crude especially in the whore house where they are very straight forward descriptions of what each lady will and can do. We walked the ruins and then finished our afternoon heading back to collect our bags at the trainstation ...... For a fee..... And onto solarno and then the almalfi coast.
This was another long long evening. Having no time to even grab a meager dinner we ate a power bar and jerky to make it to our train for sorento. Made it just in time and rode the rush hour subway for an hour to the very last stop. It was hot and because of the massive croweds we were sitting with our packs on our laps. Once in sorento it was a 20 minute wait for the bus that woulld take us along the coast to amalfi where we thought we were staying. It was a beautiful drive. Imagine pch but with orage and lemon groves shackelled together with old wood beams and houses painted in every pastel you see at easter. The sun has faded the colors we evvy in clothes and makeup but the sun raveges these buildings from the outside. The cliffs below us are so steeps that as the large bus careens around the edge its only water and no raod to veiw below you. The hairpin turns are so many they have a system where every car honks a they approach a turn. There would be no way for both bus and motor car to make the turn together. Some times passing busses are so close its only by a centimeter that they miss taking off a mirror. With the sun setting on the water and our long day of walking it was hard to keep my eyes open for the whole 2 hour ride. By the time we reached amalfi it was 10pm. We searched up and down the bustling street filled with partiers drinking anmd eating in the little cafes. No dinner for us though until our packs were dropped and we find our hotel. We stopped in a shop where the man directed us to our hotel......located in the next town over the hill to our left.
Uhmmmmmm next town over??? Sigh. So with packed strapped even tiighter as the ocean air was rushing around in a feirce manner we trudged up the hill. Along the was a kind old man out for a stroll stopped and inquired if we needed help. Did we look lost? Yes. Did we still look american? Yes apparently because he asked us in english. We hiked a mile+ up the hill and then down about 1/2 a mile and 2 huge flights of stairs to the next town, atrani. Phillipo the owner of the hostel was out locking things up and met us in the town square. This sguare is a big as the dinign area in front of our starbucks so very small. its the smallest village in italy and I believe the friendliest. Phillippe checks us un and......takes us up more stairs to our room. You willl see from the pictures that the hallway is meager and our pack barely make it through. We get to the top of this tall skinny building and enter our quaint room. Or run downa and ramshakle artic chilled room. I kid you not that the ceiling was so low I had to hunch over to walk around. I kept hitting my head whe I was complled to stand up in the morning. But it was only 20 euro a night so........ We went with it. We were so exhausted at this point we swapped jeans for sweats, showered of the dys worth od grime from walking the ruins and went to sleep.
Refreshed from the sleep I was up at 6 and ready to go. At about 730 jess was ready as well. We left our hovel or hobit habitat as I call it to go down for complimentary breakfast with phillepes brother giovanni. G gets us cappucinos and a roll and a biscuit with nutella, orange juice and a croissant filled with jelly. I know what your thinking and yes its all sugar free and low carb. No dinner the night before left us famished by morning. In turn we devoured evey morsel givn us even after we knew it was enough. I enjoyed evey drop oif my cappucino the best one I've has so far. 1/2 way through breakfast we are joined at the table by our hostel mate who is in the room 1 door down from ours. Rebecca explains she has rented a nook while we rented a cranny. Its those small details that had we know when booking we would have asked for slightly higher ceilings in our cranny.
with our bellies quieted for a moment and a day to explore we discussed the options available.
We head back to or respective nook and cranny and run into clem. He chatted with us for a bit before I took a long look at him and said "texas"? How'd you know that. I told him it was something about the accent and smile that so reminds me of a friend from austin I knew I was spot on. And if you kow my friend mike trozzo you know what I mean. There's an ease and gentlemanly quality to the way he spoke and clem is more traveled than most people I will ever meet. But his texas smile and charm are clearly an asset to his travels. We all decided to part ways maybe meeting after our afternoon teavels for some vino at the town square spot de jour "lugi's".
While a jaunt to capri would have been fun its also very costly. Instead of the 200 euro day and seeing the blue grotto in capri we took the local bus about 4km to the emerald grotto. "Only 5 euro for the elevator and boat ride and 5 for the bus". Ok we were sold. More hairoin turns and a we were there. Our scottish bus mates a mom and daughter chatted withus while we rode down to -1 level. We got off an walked out to the seas edge where a small cave opening waited for us. Inside were marco and andrea. Every greets you with where are you from because they can tell your a tourist. California we say and are greeted with +h I love you I love california we love you from marco. Well that's the way toi start a morning off right. Someone iin love with you before 10am is not bad. The our boiat man andre helped us int the boat and proclaimed his love for us as well. Oh bellas you sit in the front and I doi special english tour for you.
The grotto is beautiful and the emerald part is true. The water filtered through caves below breaks through the water creating and emerald color. Stalagmites above and rock formations that look like mussolini if you italian and like ahunold if your from cal-i-for-nee-a. Andrea spins the boat around and does his show. A nativity given to the grotto by national geographic is burried below and only revealed when the water is rippled just right. And sure enough below the edge of the boat for all to see is mary joseph and baby jesus below. The final piece is making the emeralds dance on the water. By splashing with the paddles there appear to be millions of jems on the top if the water. And then the end back to disembark. We got off the boat and back outside the cave aking pictures of the water and of ourselves as andrea approached. He was insistant I meet him for a drink later of very very strong vino the bet in the world. Jess being who she is committed fr us and andrea promised to bring along the beautiful marco who he told us has spent 3 yrs in a mental hospital but was all better now. Mmmmm we know how to bring in the big fish!!
With a vague commitment to meet that night at the church steps in amalfi we head back to the bus stop and shops up top. The ceramic shop had many beautiful thing jess got a gift for her mmom and we went to wait for the bus back to atrani. While waiting the grotto closed anmd our new friend andrea marco and their boss mario offered us a ride in their little car back to amalfi. It was a risk but we took it. I've never had anyone say so many time how beautiful my name was it is almost like romero and gillian your name said mario. Marco kept asking if we would come for wine and mario told us how he nolonger has lovers but inly platonic love. After 4 wives he was done with love it was he told me dramatic like romeo and juilette or romeo and gillian for me. We made it back to town with smiles and a promise to meet at 9 for vino. Ciao bella I'm sure is the italian equivelant of a construction worker whistler but it just sounds much nicer than "hay baby". Say it just once and you'll see. Its at this point I come to realise the reason madonna and gwyneth adopt the words and inonation of where they live. If you don't think I'm going to try to incorporate ciao and prego with the approate accent you don't know me well.
We jogged back to our hostel to drop our purchases and walked back to amalfi to find the paper museum. The hike between the towns was much easier each time. And it made me ok with the fact that my lunch was gelatto......again......caffe gelatto of course. The museum was closed for the afternoon seista time as we've learned is the general way things work here. So back we went to find some real food to eat and lounge around until the museum opened again. We stopped at luigis in the square and I tell you luigi is a treat. The food is all good and simple and the americano supreme- I don't even need to add anything to it. Luigi love us because he to loved california. He brought us food snacks and a lemonchello shot for the finish. Side note this was my second lemonchello and I do not like them. To me its the equilivant of drinking stomach acid and lemon cleaner......ugh... But when in rome. This email is full more to come soon.
From the vat we did the 2 mile treck to the parth. We spoted more fountains and some fun shops along the road. Here is where I finally got a gelatto. My first love of italy- coffee second love caffe gelatto! As we walked we spotted a fun irish pub and a cute shop with fine scarves and jackets. But no time to shop and eat we needed to get the the parthanon. Upon arriving we found this was an election heavy area. News vans and election supporters along with the tourists made this the busiest place in the area. It was a sea of people going in and coming out. This is another massive building covered in more marble "recycled" from the coloseum. after walking for a bit inside we decided befoire the grey clouds above became worse we should begin the 4 mile hike back to the hostel.
Passing the irish pub for a second time we knew we could not pass it up. So in we went. In italy I was sittinng in a pub drinking a beer and having some excellent roasted veggies. It was so good. And after eating just bread and caffe along with a power bar and almonds almost anuthing would be delicious. Now while dining we spotted a man or should I say peter pan all growed up across the street. The 55 year old man was wearing a peter pan hat. Givin the old arched storfront made of brink gave me a feeling of being in disneyland. Yes you read that right a grown man in a green felt hat picking of clothes from this shop. I have a photo for you when I return. We finished or beer and set off on the way back. The weather was a bit gloomy and since its been sputtering rain ever since we arrived being a bit damp at all tmes has just become standard. So off again on the streets of rome. Well we made it almost the whole we when we came to a spot where nothing was familiar......... We walked a few blocks left........ Nope ....... A few blocks right...... Nope.... And so we walked all the way back to a point we knew was familiar. Adding about another mile of lost trecking to our day. Well when we found the err of our directions we were cold and tired. It was time to shower and get to bed since the next day we had a mile hike to the metro to get to naples for a day in pompeii and then onto amalfi.
The hostel here in rome is like a ymca. There are really travelers of all ages here. The best are the tweens. Tonight the french kids are causing trouble. Instead of keeping to their seperate boy and girl areas they are co mingling. How do I know? Well a lot of yelling and screaming followed by the head guy coming up stairs to telll them in broken french that no boys upstairs!!!! Just as the 2 shake their head and start waling down the stairs the girls door flings open and out trots another offender with a huge smile. That and a ringlett crowned girl waving and shouting goodbye while her girlfriend erupt in laughter behind her. Ahhhh those are the days.
Anyway.... Jess and I were beat. A day of so much trecking and as jess says my speedwalking pace is maddening and ehausting, she had to just sleep. 9pm eyes closed. 645am eyes barely open. She is not adjusting to the time change very well. I on the other hand am a goodmorning sunshine bluebird here in europe. Its a sign that I should live here at least part of the year. Ill see what my future prince will set me up with.
Ok so sleep. we did for a while - got up at 5 to read about what we would be seeing the next day and packed my bags. I did not bring a lot but everytime I put it on my shoulders I wish I had even less. Of course its a great way to continue training with out the hard core tears inducing beating I'm use to. Regarding fashion here I'm at home. the italians wear jeans and black 2 of my favorite things all the time. The bad thing is I've been wearing my jeans for 4 days of travel...... They are getting washed soon..... Very very soon......
The kids here...... Well purple and pink are very popular with the boys. It really is like an episode of the gottis. Except the swearing is in italian. The women dress in very expensive clothes as well. Appearance and high priced close are the thing here. Its style unlike any I have seen anywhere else. They regulary go out for walks before dinner to just stroll and I think show off their latest fancy "church" clothes as my grams would say. And we have seen many expensive suits and even 2 full cordory suits on men in the last day. Interesting for sure.
But day 3 was upon us and here we were saving 1 euro and walking the endless mile to the metro and hoppin the subway to the train. Most of my money here has been spent on transport and lodging. Food is coming in a low 3 place and souveniers.....tbd. But we take the train to naples and its a great ride. We are on a 1st class ticket as recommended by everyone we spoke with since 2class really means no air conditioning. And on these stuffy traing you need the air.
We arrive in naples, check our bags and head to a day in pompeii- a town destroyed when now inactive volcano vesuvius erupted. The town was wiped out but after 300 years of excavation large amounts of the town still remain along with the bodies of many that were covered in ash. Ill be honest with you but I was bored out of my skull here. It all looks the same and the directions were so maddening I was not having fun. Oh well after 2 hours we were done. Time to eat in the pompeii cafeteria and head to more ruins. In the caff, jess had a eyes bigger than her stomach moment. 18 euros later she was regretting getting and eating all of it. Pasta a bowl os sugared fruit and a nutella and pastery dessert later and she bagan a sugar high and sugar low rollercoaster ride. Ah the joy and misery of youth. The thing I'm having a hard time finding is veggies. I miss my broccoli. But I'm sure ill be missing the croissants and butter once I return home.
From pompeii we hopped the subway to heruclean or erculano as they say here. This being a smaller more contained ruins site was far more interesting. Its brings back how civilized these thriving cities were just as forward thinking as we are even down to the fast that they offered a medieval equilivant of fast food. Literally there were flower pot size bins filled with food that as the people drove their cart through town they could pull up to the stand and order take out. Crazy right? Their tile work is stunning thousands and even millions of itty bitty tiles together form and paintings are slightly crude especially in the whore house where they are very straight forward descriptions of what each lady will and can do. We walked the ruins and then finished our afternoon heading back to collect our bags at the trainstation ...... For a fee..... And onto solarno and then the almalfi coast.
This was another long long evening. Having no time to even grab a meager dinner we ate a power bar and jerky to make it to our train for sorento. Made it just in time and rode the rush hour subway for an hour to the very last stop. It was hot and because of the massive croweds we were sitting with our packs on our laps. Once in sorento it was a 20 minute wait for the bus that woulld take us along the coast to amalfi where we thought we were staying. It was a beautiful drive. Imagine pch but with orage and lemon groves shackelled together with old wood beams and houses painted in every pastel you see at easter. The sun has faded the colors we evvy in clothes and makeup but the sun raveges these buildings from the outside. The cliffs below us are so steeps that as the large bus careens around the edge its only water and no raod to veiw below you. The hairpin turns are so many they have a system where every car honks a they approach a turn. There would be no way for both bus and motor car to make the turn together. Some times passing busses are so close its only by a centimeter that they miss taking off a mirror. With the sun setting on the water and our long day of walking it was hard to keep my eyes open for the whole 2 hour ride. By the time we reached amalfi it was 10pm. We searched up and down the bustling street filled with partiers drinking anmd eating in the little cafes. No dinner for us though until our packs were dropped and we find our hotel. We stopped in a shop where the man directed us to our hotel......located in the next town over the hill to our left.
Uhmmmmmm next town over??? Sigh. So with packed strapped even tiighter as the ocean air was rushing around in a feirce manner we trudged up the hill. Along the was a kind old man out for a stroll stopped and inquired if we needed help. Did we look lost? Yes. Did we still look american? Yes apparently because he asked us in english. We hiked a mile+ up the hill and then down about 1/2 a mile and 2 huge flights of stairs to the next town, atrani. Phillipo the owner of the hostel was out locking things up and met us in the town square. This sguare is a big as the dinign area in front of our starbucks so very small. its the smallest village in italy and I believe the friendliest. Phillippe checks us un and......takes us up more stairs to our room. You willl see from the pictures that the hallway is meager and our pack barely make it through. We get to the top of this tall skinny building and enter our quaint room. Or run downa and ramshakle artic chilled room. I kid you not that the ceiling was so low I had to hunch over to walk around. I kept hitting my head whe I was complled to stand up in the morning. But it was only 20 euro a night so........ We went with it. We were so exhausted at this point we swapped jeans for sweats, showered of the dys worth od grime from walking the ruins and went to sleep.
Refreshed from the sleep I was up at 6 and ready to go. At about 730 jess was ready as well. We left our hovel or hobit habitat as I call it to go down for complimentary breakfast with phillepes brother giovanni. G gets us cappucinos and a roll and a biscuit with nutella, orange juice and a croissant filled with jelly. I know what your thinking and yes its all sugar free and low carb. No dinner the night before left us famished by morning. In turn we devoured evey morsel givn us even after we knew it was enough. I enjoyed evey drop oif my cappucino the best one I've has so far. 1/2 way through breakfast we are joined at the table by our hostel mate who is in the room 1 door down from ours. Rebecca explains she has rented a nook while we rented a cranny. Its those small details that had we know when booking we would have asked for slightly higher ceilings in our cranny.
with our bellies quieted for a moment and a day to explore we discussed the options available.
We head back to or respective nook and cranny and run into clem. He chatted with us for a bit before I took a long look at him and said "texas"? How'd you know that. I told him it was something about the accent and smile that so reminds me of a friend from austin I knew I was spot on. And if you kow my friend mike trozzo you know what I mean. There's an ease and gentlemanly quality to the way he spoke and clem is more traveled than most people I will ever meet. But his texas smile and charm are clearly an asset to his travels. We all decided to part ways maybe meeting after our afternoon teavels for some vino at the town square spot de jour "lugi's".
While a jaunt to capri would have been fun its also very costly. Instead of the 200 euro day and seeing the blue grotto in capri we took the local bus about 4km to the emerald grotto. "Only 5 euro for the elevator and boat ride and 5 for the bus". Ok we were sold. More hairoin turns and a we were there. Our scottish bus mates a mom and daughter chatted withus while we rode down to -1 level. We got off an walked out to the seas edge where a small cave opening waited for us. Inside were marco and andrea. Every greets you with where are you from because they can tell your a tourist. California we say and are greeted with +h I love you I love california we love you from marco. Well that's the way toi start a morning off right. Someone iin love with you before 10am is not bad. The our boiat man andre helped us int the boat and proclaimed his love for us as well. Oh bellas you sit in the front and I doi special english tour for you.
The grotto is beautiful and the emerald part is true. The water filtered through caves below breaks through the water creating and emerald color. Stalagmites above and rock formations that look like mussolini if you italian and like ahunold if your from cal-i-for-nee-a. Andrea spins the boat around and does his show. A nativity given to the grotto by national geographic is burried below and only revealed when the water is rippled just right. And sure enough below the edge of the boat for all to see is mary joseph and baby jesus below. The final piece is making the emeralds dance on the water. By splashing with the paddles there appear to be millions of jems on the top if the water. And then the end back to disembark. We got off the boat and back outside the cave aking pictures of the water and of ourselves as andrea approached. He was insistant I meet him for a drink later of very very strong vino the bet in the world. Jess being who she is committed fr us and andrea promised to bring along the beautiful marco who he told us has spent 3 yrs in a mental hospital but was all better now. Mmmmm we know how to bring in the big fish!!
With a vague commitment to meet that night at the church steps in amalfi we head back to the bus stop and shops up top. The ceramic shop had many beautiful thing jess got a gift for her mmom and we went to wait for the bus back to atrani. While waiting the grotto closed anmd our new friend andrea marco and their boss mario offered us a ride in their little car back to amalfi. It was a risk but we took it. I've never had anyone say so many time how beautiful my name was it is almost like romero and gillian your name said mario. Marco kept asking if we would come for wine and mario told us how he nolonger has lovers but inly platonic love. After 4 wives he was done with love it was he told me dramatic like romeo and juilette or romeo and gillian for me. We made it back to town with smiles and a promise to meet at 9 for vino. Ciao bella I'm sure is the italian equivelant of a construction worker whistler but it just sounds much nicer than "hay baby". Say it just once and you'll see. Its at this point I come to realise the reason madonna and gwyneth adopt the words and inonation of where they live. If you don't think I'm going to try to incorporate ciao and prego with the approate accent you don't know me well.
We jogged back to our hostel to drop our purchases and walked back to amalfi to find the paper museum. The hike between the towns was much easier each time. And it made me ok with the fact that my lunch was gelatto......again......caffe gelatto of course. The museum was closed for the afternoon seista time as we've learned is the general way things work here. So back we went to find some real food to eat and lounge around until the museum opened again. We stopped at luigis in the square and I tell you luigi is a treat. The food is all good and simple and the americano supreme- I don't even need to add anything to it. Luigi love us because he to loved california. He brought us food snacks and a lemonchello shot for the finish. Side note this was my second lemonchello and I do not like them. To me its the equilivant of drinking stomach acid and lemon cleaner......ugh... But when in rome. This email is full more to come soon.
Friday, April 11, 2008
Oh this day has been too long...
As I stand here at the coloseum and all its grand excess I'm just ready for a nap.
Jessica I have learned is not a spur of the moment gal. Things must be planned to the detail. But I'm sure I'm just as much of a pain to deal with especially after the headache that started on the plane lingered until tonig and was a suck fest.
.
Maybe our moods were because we lived through the plane ride from hell.
You know the main scoop from the atlanta airport and I believe I left off as we were boarding.
As we board the plane we get to our row 38 and there sit a couple. We showed them the tickets and reluctantly the man pulled out his sure that we were wrong only to see he does not know the number 7 from the 8. Even better the wrong people were in their seats. Oh who cars we said and took the seats two rows ahead. The we the first error. We should have made them move. It was a while to board the full fliight as we picked out the possible euros flying with us. And then we see him. There was a mom and her "precosius"sp?? son walking on the plane. That child was a terror in the airport brfore hand and now DAMIEN WAS ON THE PLANE. While just looking at him you. Know he's not a good kid.
Somehow he managed to be content.
That all ended in about 45 minutes. Damien sat sipping the second soda pop of the last 2 hrs. Along with the candy. Then IT happened. He changed from child to beast. The quite white noise hum of coach was replaced by a blood curdling scream. I know your asking how bad was it be we will get to the examples soon. At first as peoplegenerally do we all ignored it thinking oh he will settle down soon. .aybe its his ears. But no, an hour of punching and kicking the seats anywhere in the vacinity and throwing a full fledged kicking hammering layed out on the floor tempertantrum did no dimish his energy. It increased x10. the stewardess tried so hard to make things calmer but there was no winning. The impending dinner service meant time they could divote to this was limited. You don't wan unhappy and very hungery passangers ready to riot. The scrreaming began to increase as the food serving lagged to much for damien. In a hope to ease the grief the offered a free drink for everyone in coach.
Side nite tales from the seats near damien- one 18-21 year old guy was right behind damien. His solution- beer. As many as he was allowed to buy and his budget would afford.
Jessica I have learned is not a spur of the moment gal. Things must be planned to the detail. But I'm sure I'm just as much of a pain to deal with especially after the headache that started on the plane lingered until tonig and was a suck fest.
.
Maybe our moods were because we lived through the plane ride from hell.
You know the main scoop from the atlanta airport and I believe I left off as we were boarding.
As we board the plane we get to our row 38 and there sit a couple. We showed them the tickets and reluctantly the man pulled out his sure that we were wrong only to see he does not know the number 7 from the 8. Even better the wrong people were in their seats. Oh who cars we said and took the seats two rows ahead. The we the first error. We should have made them move. It was a while to board the full fliight as we picked out the possible euros flying with us. And then we see him. There was a mom and her "precosius"sp?? son walking on the plane. That child was a terror in the airport brfore hand and now DAMIEN WAS ON THE PLANE. While just looking at him you. Know he's not a good kid.
Somehow he managed to be content.
That all ended in about 45 minutes. Damien sat sipping the second soda pop of the last 2 hrs. Along with the candy. Then IT happened. He changed from child to beast. The quite white noise hum of coach was replaced by a blood curdling scream. I know your asking how bad was it be we will get to the examples soon. At first as peoplegenerally do we all ignored it thinking oh he will settle down soon. .aybe its his ears. But no, an hour of punching and kicking the seats anywhere in the vacinity and throwing a full fledged kicking hammering layed out on the floor tempertantrum did no dimish his energy. It increased x10. the stewardess tried so hard to make things calmer but there was no winning. The impending dinner service meant time they could divote to this was limited. You don't wan unhappy and very hungery passangers ready to riot. The scrreaming began to increase as the food serving lagged to much for damien. In a hope to ease the grief the offered a free drink for everyone in coach.
Side nite tales from the seats near damien- one 18-21 year old guy was right behind damien. His solution- beer. As many as he was allowed to buy and his budget would afford.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
We've got a Runner
Here's one of the new terms we've started using runner. With a lot of wait time here in atlanta we get to hear the last minute boarding call followed by a fleeing passanger wisking by with their wheely burning rubber behind them.
Second fun fact we were barely 10 minutes into the first flight when jessica leaned forward and whispered "cover me." So I did leaning forqard as she man handled her self in the plane seat. Moments later her bra whipped out from under her shirt as she proclaimed "thank God, I'm free." The pope will not know what what hit him.
So to keep us occupied during these jaunts we have managed to walk around the whole airport and check out the food options. Not wanting something fried....... Again we opt for the salad at tgi fridays.
FYI - At the restaurant in the airport they only give out plastic knives. Now I fell just as much damage can be done with the metal fork but who am I to judge the airport rules.
Even better than just a runner we also have a euro runner. He ran all the way one direction to have to clearly turn around and head back to our end
We have checked out all the displayed contraban items to have made they way to the airport here and let me say weird and sad. Mnay things like the animal parts turned into stools make me sad and also judge harshly the taste of the buyer. And weird things from asia are in abundance in the never buy this stuff display. Best part? Jessica looking and and declairing to me "hey my trainer give me that stuff". Don't even ask me to spell it but think jing duck way. She could be consuming bull penis for all she knows. Oh how easily we cave to the pressurse of our trainers. Sigh. Mb I hope your session last night was ok! bag lunch and boot camp is just weeks away!
Ok I've now hit the trravel wall and must close my eyes a bit. Don't worry dt we are sleeping on top of our valueables.
Oh blonde moment for me loosing my camera. It was lucky that I wanted a picture of the giant corn shaped like an airplane and noticed it must have fallen from the bag. And yes giant corn is right ill show you the picture. But back to camera lost and camera still hidden behind the chair leg all safe an sound on the airport floor 20 minutes later.
More tales soon oh wait I think I hear another runner!
Hrhzp
Second fun fact we were barely 10 minutes into the first flight when jessica leaned forward and whispered "cover me." So I did leaning forqard as she man handled her self in the plane seat. Moments later her bra whipped out from under her shirt as she proclaimed "thank God, I'm free." The pope will not know what what hit him.
So to keep us occupied during these jaunts we have managed to walk around the whole airport and check out the food options. Not wanting something fried....... Again we opt for the salad at tgi fridays.
FYI - At the restaurant in the airport they only give out plastic knives. Now I fell just as much damage can be done with the metal fork but who am I to judge the airport rules.
Even better than just a runner we also have a euro runner. He ran all the way one direction to have to clearly turn around and head back to our end
We have checked out all the displayed contraban items to have made they way to the airport here and let me say weird and sad. Mnay things like the animal parts turned into stools make me sad and also judge harshly the taste of the buyer. And weird things from asia are in abundance in the never buy this stuff display. Best part? Jessica looking and and declairing to me "hey my trainer give me that stuff". Don't even ask me to spell it but think jing duck way. She could be consuming bull penis for all she knows. Oh how easily we cave to the pressurse of our trainers. Sigh. Mb I hope your session last night was ok! bag lunch and boot camp is just weeks away!
Ok I've now hit the trravel wall and must close my eyes a bit. Don't worry dt we are sleeping on top of our valueables.
Oh blonde moment for me loosing my camera. It was lucky that I wanted a picture of the giant corn shaped like an airplane and noticed it must have fallen from the bag. And yes giant corn is right ill show you the picture. But back to camera lost and camera still hidden behind the chair leg all safe an sound on the airport floor 20 minutes later.
More tales soon oh wait I think I hear another runner!
Hrhzp
Flight One Complete - Two more to go...
Well we landed in Utah and and while watching the baggage guys unload the. plane tossing our items like popcorn through the air and watching each bag drop like a dead body to the ground I make a mental note.... No breakables in the checked luggage on the way home.
The plane ride was short and plesant while we were entertained by the two year old behind us. She was a curious one asking ?s the whole flight. Are we upside down now? Why is she giving him a bottle? Why can't I have a bottle like that guy? a nice stiff drink is not todler friendly I guess because mom and dad gave her the sippy cup instead. Her greatest comment when we began to unload. Her grandma in the seat ahead of her finally woke and stood up. Upon seeing grandma with eyes open the little curly top child exclaimed for the whole plane to hear" wow grandma, I thought you were dead!" Laughing and snikers rolled down the cabin but my first thought was..... What has this 2 year old witnessed in her short life that made her thing sleeping equals dead. wow I love to see people warp their kids early in life kudos to those parents.
Ok more to come as this will be my versiopn of a trravel journal. Should anyone need to opt out of this email feel free to let me know. A small part of me will be hurt but it will scab over and scar soon enough. Hey I learned some italian....... Ciao.
HRHZP
The plane ride was short and plesant while we were entertained by the two year old behind us. She was a curious one asking ?s the whole flight. Are we upside down now? Why is she giving him a bottle? Why can't I have a bottle like that guy? a nice stiff drink is not todler friendly I guess because mom and dad gave her the sippy cup instead. Her greatest comment when we began to unload. Her grandma in the seat ahead of her finally woke and stood up. Upon seeing grandma with eyes open the little curly top child exclaimed for the whole plane to hear" wow grandma, I thought you were dead!" Laughing and snikers rolled down the cabin but my first thought was..... What has this 2 year old witnessed in her short life that made her thing sleeping equals dead. wow I love to see people warp their kids early in life kudos to those parents.
Ok more to come as this will be my versiopn of a trravel journal. Should anyone need to opt out of this email feel free to let me know. A small part of me will be hurt but it will scab over and scar soon enough. Hey I learned some italian....... Ciao.
HRHZP
Trip Begins...
Without too much trauma, but loads of traffic we have arrived at the airport safe and sound. Brief moments of fear occured when at the self check in kiosk when it kept saying no ticket in system please see an agent. Turns out flight number changed and we are still on track. Hhhmmm here in the empty airport there is slightly strange but onwards and upwards.
More to come from hrhzp
More to come from hrhzp
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)