Well we got up this morning to pack up, eat our breakfast of roll jam and coffee and hit the road again. Oh a day on the train. This day is a train trip with lots of time in tunnels, we are to the point of being weary travelers and our compartment mates are a busy business man and detached teen. Not much for conversation I suppose. And so we sit and nap and have our tickets checked and nap until stop number 1 in pisa. Yes leaning tower and all.
Off we hop to check our bags and take a quick peek at the tower famous for leaning despite being surrounded by what is called the field of miracles and a huge doumo and lots of vendors selling their wares on the edge. We opt for saving as many euros as possible this day and walk to the tower instead of bus. Its nly about 2 miles to the site and we set out. After passing many delicious shops selling sandwiches and sweet treats we cross the bridge and know we are getting closer. There's a buzz in this part of town. A tourist buzz. It happens upon you almost by surprize as you navigate the surrounding shops and almost like cresting over a mountain hill - it appears- the thing we have sought. Surrounded by hundreds of tourists we see in front of us the doumo/church and to our right....there is the tower and it really is leaning. A lot. I sat and took it all in while jess went to explore and take pictures.
Now came the point in which I became an unofficial pisa photog! It started with one young couple asking if I would mind taking their picture together. Immediatly after another man asked me to oblige...and another....and another....and about 8 more. I was happy to help and the people were very nice about it. One english man even said "you seem to be the expert today would you mind??" Of course not and so I shot his pic as well. There was a brief lull and jessica was making her way back to me and then another request. Finally I took one last shot for a man who really had specifics on his picture. In turn I asked him to take mine and retire as unofficial photog of pisa for the day!
The tower itself is not as impressive compared to other marble covered buildings in europe. Its all about the leaning and sinking. After touring the coloseum and vatican all covered religious building the size of pisa is much smaller. Its use of colored "recycled" marble is what's beautiful. The green marble in the sun is stunning. Again reminding my self that the marble on this structure ways so much huge iron clamps are required to keep it attached to the facade its no wonder because of the sheer weight os each of these buildings that more have not sunk. The lean of the building is incredible. From far away its clearly leaning but when you see the base upclose that's when you can comprhend the real impact of the soft earth below giving way. They only allow 25 people up in the tower at a time and for a limited time. At 6 euros we decided it was not something toi accomplish this trip. Next time maybe. We have secured the return by throwing the coins in the fountian at treve so we are good!!!!
Time to walk around the vendors and the field of miracles before hopping back on the train to genoa.
Side not- have I already said I have a hard time remembering its genoa not genovia from princess diaries?? Oh well I am after all a self crowned princess all I need is a castle and my prince. On with the search. We finish at pisa and head back to the train station. While going through the main square we are stopped by a young man who asks us in english - please sign to help keep people off drugs? Again jessica wonders how he knew we spoke english......... They are looking for donations to continue funding their stay drug free program. The young man collecting signatures told us his story of being addicted to cocane and booze and has been clean 2 years. We congrats him on that and he asks us where we are from CA we say and get again as we often do "ohhhh I love california!! Are you famous??? The second time I've gotten this one from now on maybe is should just say yes I am. I'm the princess and deputy mayor of disney studios in burbank! Is that fame enough?? With hand shakes and a small donation of the coins in our pockets we say goodbye.
Again I think the joyed response we get regarding california is due to most people knowing where that part is located. If I said boise I don't know if the love would be as profuse!
On to the train and to genoa. We were ready to rest for our fun hike through the vineyards of cinque terra was tomorrow. On we traveled until genoa. We hop off the train and head to get bus tickets. Now....... Where is our bus stop. We search the station and finally find the right # stop. We get on and realise..... Wrong direction. This has happened to us almost every time we get to a new location. One wrong bus then a stop a walk back and start all over again. So we walk back to the station in the rain since waiting in the uncovered stop for the next bus sounded even less fun.
Back at the station we ask again and a nice driver points us to a remote spot near a shop with signs hidden by trees. This is our stop.. Packs secured we make our way across busy traffic to the bus. We hop on and all is good but the bus at rush hour is crowded. Jessica has already had one moment of being sandwiched in the doors as they attempt ti close she did not want another. Breath in and scooch forward is our method to fitting body and backpack into the train. We get to the right transfer spot, hop off and wait in the rain for our second bus that is close behind thankfully. Hop on and hope we don't miss the right stop for the hostel.
With the aid of a woman- italian- who pulled our sleeves and said hostelo?? Yes we nodded! Here she pointed and we all got off we followed here to our latest ymca style home for 2days and checked in.
This one like the others is clean and sparce. The bed....... Wow was it a bit wobbly though. If you breathed worng it swayed!! It is just a etal bunk so you can only do so much. We spent the night resting and enjoying the piece. We had dinner comprised of an apple and jerky and water with a power bar and our favorite new cookies- granolcerra digestivos!! Full of fiber and gusto!! What is gusto?? I don't know but we needed something to tide us til morning.
Sleep and showers in the am. We were dressed for our st through the vineyards and ready to burn calories and reward ourselves with a nice luch after. This hike through the vineyards is 10 miles long, which we knew. But this was a hard core hike. If you were to clasify it that way they do rapids this would be a level 3 intermediate hike no doubt!! We are in good shape and we up for it be even we had points we just had to pause and look ahead at when we would reach the next town and water!!
The hike is broken up like this. 2-3 miles between each town. You hike the trails established during the war when they needd to get supplies back and forth. There are more steep steps than I can count. You can start in the northern most town or southern which is what we did. The souther strarts out with the bridge via del'amore. A long winding path over the ocean rocks all covered in graffiti. This is where lovers once ran off from their towns to meet and that's how it got its name. At one point a tradition of placing a little padlock on the fence on the bridge signified two loves that will be locked together forever. Now couple add locks here to show their love. Its a sweet sentiment and makes me wish for a time when I will walk there with someone and lock our love together. Of course not knowing how sweaty and worn out I would be at the end..... On we hiked invigorated by the crashing waves below and the fresh air and no rain!! Had the rain kept pouring like it had the day before this would not have been possible. On we marched. It was a medium level hike at this point and we were making good time and getting a great workout as well until we were trapped behind a group of german tourists. Now jess has begun calling me nascar because I walk so fast. I'm trying to slow the pace but it's hard. So if I hear hey nascar behind me I know its time to slow.
But back to the germans. Our travel guide wqrned us we will pass many german tour groups with walking sticks. Death spike is more like it. We came to a group oif 30+ germans all armed with their metal spike tipped walking sticks. They jam those things so deep into the ground with each step I was worried if I passed them and they did not pay attention that jess or I could lose a toe!!!! I'm werious here. I worry about bringing ny knitting needles made of plastic and bamboo on a flight for fear they may think they are weapons and here this senior group is so well armed on the trail with sausages and spikes at least I know if we,re attacked I can shout "my great great great grandparents on my grandmothers side were german please protect us!!!" So we weaved forward only when the spiked filled obsticle course would allow. They were moving at a good pace for seniors-active seniors infact- but for nascar this is ssslllooowwwwww.finally we came to a conjested slow as a picture nook came upon us. We were muddles in the middle with the mass until the best part. when one of the leaders looked at us shouted something in german and like the sea they parted to let us through with smiles and spike safely held to their sided. For the rest of the hike it was our goal to remain ahead of the germans. when we slowed I reminded jess the germans were coming the germans were coming and we would pick up the pace again!
Onto the 2 town which was a bit steep and a little muddy but still a good hike.
It was not til we wound around the first 2/3 of the 2 leg to the 3rd town that we saw the staiirs. Not just a flight but about 30 steep flights up the side of the hill. Did I mention they were steep? We started out strong and forced ourselves to finish to the top. About 1/3 of the way up sweat was covering every inch of our bodies. It was not raining but my clothes were stuck to my back! No wonder the travel guide said going north to south would be easier. This would have been downhill stairs then.
When we reach the top we have also reached town #3 and a sign proclaiming we have successfully climbed the 382 steps to reach the villlage!! Yes 382 and that does not include all the hiking steps we did before reaching this portion of the trail. ! This also We took some time here to stroll the village but knew we still had a great distance to go. Before reaching the steps we thought the hike would be easy enough to do 2 times.....doubt had now entered our thoughts. One round might be enough!!
Onto the next town!! We kept our pace quick and we were taking off clothing layers left and right. Sweat was pouring from us. Our labored breathing only increased as steep sets of stairs upward seemed to be around every bend. Don't get me wrong the views are spectacular. It ocean the vineyards the towns. I bet when the vines are in full blown grape growing season it would look like a seen from a movie. The travel guides all say that once you visit you will fall in love with one of 2 things in cinque terra- the towns or one of the residents. And this ......is true. How could you pass up a quaint village on the water or any of the beautiful shirtless men tending the vines along the path.
At each town they check your ticket for the trail. The worst part for me was handing over a sweat soaked piece of paper each time that only got worse as we trecked.
On to town 4 and we knew we would not venture back for a 2nd round in one day. The clouds were getting gray and jess's knee was beginning to hurt. Outstreached in front was a beautiful path seeming to wander throught the olive trees. Until we get around the corner.
Side note- not only are the people here pretty but if they treck just to their houses and yes people live along the paths- they must be in such great shape from climbing these stone paths. Their butts and calves must rival The David!!
Back on track- we round the bend to come face tro face with what seems like an endless upward treck up stony stairs at an 80 degree angle. Lord help us. We forge ahead exhausted but determined to complete all 5 legs. We hike and rest hike and rest til we reach more leve ground. We pause then tackle the next set of stairs. Here's where we learn to listen to the guide book and maybe take his easier route first! On we went when we came upon an multi culti family made up of a brit and american and their multi culti daughter. This was a plus fr us since the dad was telling his daugheter the story of odiseus and his love. It took our mind off the next 10 sets of stairs while we focused on hearing the tale I had not heard since grade school. All about unwavering love and hope and true devotion to your soul mate. It was great and the daughter was very insightful in her questions as well. Even better- the thought that maybe homer simpson do a version of homer while naming who will play each role from the simpson family. Greek tragedy meets american pop culture.
Our multi culti asked us where we were from and proclaimed she has been to the stats "about a billion times!!" As they waited back at town #4 to let their mom rest her knee we said farewell and treged onto the final leg. We were starving and what kept us moving forward was the hope of food and wine. We applied one more coat of sunscreen onto our dusty sweaty faces and headed up. Along the route we saw a refuse set up for the homeless cats who all must congergate in this cove. The smell...... Well someone have not been changing the litter box enough!! We made sure they had some food and water and forged ahead. More stairsa meet us and we had come to a much slower pace by this point. As the land leveled I said to jess I was suree we were close now..... Nope. Wrong around the mountain to reveal we needed to treck one more mile before getting to the end. We had cover the 9 miles before and 10 miles is not horrible on flat land- hiking it is another story. Jess commented that my pollyanna attitude made her sick but I could not let the exhaustion frustrate. One more flight of stairs and around the bend and we reached a flatter strech. Here we ambled down the trail dripping sweat and exhausted and meeting an american couple coming from the opposite direction. The looked at us only having done a tenth of the hike so far and proclaimed-- is their much more climbing?? We're exhausted!!
Oh gosh what else did we need to hike to get to the end! How could it be harder than what we just did and if they are tired already they better stop now! We told them they had a more downhill treck and that if they took it easy they would finish the last leg on all flat paths. Thanks and onward because our stomachs were not happy.
Up down up down up down little bits here and there and then around the corner down in a vinyard was a man resembling santa clause tending his garden. I snapped a quick shot and we continued downwards. More sets of stone steps. I even stopped taking pictuires of the route because I was so tired! It was all we could do to hold It together when out we popped into hpthe last town!!!! Our arrival was time perfectly for italian siesta time meaning most of the restaurants and shops were closed.......... Tears..... Maybe a few. We walked around to a small cafe and sat.
As we looked over the guide we noted the speciality of the area is anchovies. How could I not try them. Jess was not up for it so I ordered the house special plate and she got a pannini. The plate came with an assortment of cheese salami and anchovies. Well it was now or never. I dove in and while they are a fine fish fresh they were also so salty I needed about a gallon of water after eating my allotment of 3 fish. I downed my water amd wine and hoped the bread would help soak some salt up as well. The last time I ate anything this salty I was thurstay for days. We finished our meals and feeling full but not stuffed knew there was room for my favorite treat----gelatto!!!
Over the course of our stay here I am suree we will try every flavor.
More to come soon of our hike and genoa and impending storm on the hroizon.
Ciao!!
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